| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
drew72cutlass
Joined: 08 Mar 2005
Posts: 16
Location: Miami Florida
|
| Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 12:36 am Post subject: roof rust |
|
|
:( I got roof rust.....yes, it was from the deadly vinyl top!
has anyone just replaced the WHOLE ROOF skin? Can I find it somewhere preformed? or do I need to use regular flat sheet metal.
I was thinking of using my grinder and sandblaster, then covering the WHOLE ROOF with a layer of fiber glass.
What do you guys think? |
|
| Back to top |
|
bdyman
Joined: 19 May 2004
Posts: 173
Location: chicago baby!!!!
|
| Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 8:36 pm Post subject: |
|
|
it depends on where the rust is, in the middle in the window frame, f/b glass is not the cure all answer to everything
if it is real bad then cut out the rust and make a patch panel
or
replace the roof skin
or
if it is just surface rust then yes sand blast the rust gone, D.A. with 80 fill any small pin holes that the rust made sand it down use a primer filler that has corrosion protectant properties in it like ppg`s ncp 271
replacing a roof skin is not easy allot of work has to be done and no need for welding the whole thing only where the factory had the welds the rest can be bonded if you ask i will get into the correct way of bonding metal
you really need to be experienced with a grinder if you are not you will warp the living hell out of the roof
get some pic`s up so i can help ya out more |
|
| Back to top |
|
drew72cutlass
Joined: 08 Mar 2005
Posts: 16
Location: Miami Florida
|
| Posted: Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:44 am Post subject: |
|
|
I posted some pics in my gallery at oldspower.com
http://www.oldspower.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=2995
basically, there is bondo covering from about an inch back from the front leading edge to aboult 5 or 6 inches back. It leaks rain water, so I know the rust goes through there. Also, there are some holes that go all the way through on both sides where the seams in the vinyl were located.
I don't own a welder, but was thinking of buying an oxy/acet. set up from harbor freight so I could weld , heat, & cut when needed.
My other alternative is to use that new epoxy for autobody. Any opinions about that? |
|
| Back to top |
|
bdyman
Joined: 19 May 2004
Posts: 173
Location: chicago baby!!!!
|
| Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 9:52 pm Post subject: |
|
|
well ur link is not workin on my puter
but anyway.....if your talkin about bonding a new panel then heere is the correct way and according to i-car rules
of cpourse tear the car apart
then drill out all spot welds on the roof around the pinch welds
DO NOT USE A AIR HAMMER OR ANY HIGH POWERED TOOL when it comes to removing a roof
use a chisel and a hammer because you will need to keep the oem bond line on the inner roof
so with the new oem roof scuff the underside part of the roof with a red scuff pad
and yes you do need a mig or if you know how a tig welder
apply a bead of panle bond to the new panle and a bead on the inner roof
but now you have to know where the old wleds go and do not apply panel bond to the areas where you will spot weld it in place
basicly about it
real easy
you can also do patch panels
again you need a mig or tig i suggest a tig for roof`s you have a lesser chance of warpin but if your a good welder a mig is just as good
cut out the old metal
appy a e-coat to the metal and to the new patch panle ya made
you can do a lap weld or a but weld patch panel
or if your good with metal even a plug weld
i hope i helped out the best i could |
|
| Back to top |
|
| |
