The Oldsmobile Connection

DKnight · Joined: 10 Nov 2003 Posts: 63 Location: Huntington, WV

I'm sure it is off some. From what I have put together, the Olds 88 speedo is a 1-2 mph behind at 60mph, so I'm really doing 61 or 62 when it shows 60. I try to counter that by hitting the button as the needle first reaches the 60 mark, rather than when it's exactly over it. Besides that, it takes a split second for the visual info to reach the brain and go to the hand.

I may be off by 1-2 tenths of a second either way, but it's all I have to measure by. If I measured the Aurora with a stopwatch, it'd probably show 8.3 or something. The 8.2 number is the "official" number given by Oldsmobile.

Now...my next challenge will be getting these same numbers when the weather turns warmer.

88Delta88...I always assumed that your car was a 3800 without a manifold cover, but when I looked at your MAF the other day, it dawned on me that you had a Buick Grand National MAF, and they quit making the GN in 87. Really, your motor is more like a GN without a turbo than a 3800. I knew that GM used some ordinary 3.8s in '88. I'm fortunate to have the 3800 version, even in its very first year. The thing STILL doesn't burn oil, haha. All I can say is that God has blessed that car.

My, my...I wonder if breaking the 7's is possible without too many big mods? All I know is that it pulls hard, and doesn't stop pulling now. It used to bog a little on launch, or at the 1-2 shift. No more. :P

DK

88delta88 · Joined: 09 Jun 2003 Posts: 2401 Location: Canada

DK, tell me more about this SEA FOAM stuff you speak of... Where can I get some, I've tried injector cleaners from one end of the shelf to the other, and with the same results (not dissapointed, but they dont work great, you sound like you really like this stuff). I'm very interested.

Also, DK, why dont you start stripping weight from your car. I noticed a HUGE difference when I installed my stereo (estimated between 120-150LBS). If you can remove 100 pounds from stock weight, you'd be that much better off. wheel covers, unnessicary parts/brackets from the engine compartment, take out the spare, jack, stuff from the trunk...

I dont know if there is any way to get rid of some unnessicary load on your pulley system either? Does your AC work? Get a belt from the auto store for a non-ac car (if that even will work?)

Also, do you think a smaller tire would give you an advantage at all? Not sure if that would actually hurt you because of shift points?

Have you played around with any of that octane booster stuff at all? I dunno if its worth it, or are you going for a TRUE 0-60 with no additives?

Just some thoughts...

DKnight · Joined: 10 Nov 2003 Posts: 63 Location: Huntington, WV

Sea Foam is the only injector/fuel system cleaner that I have found yet that meets its promises. If you put a can in your tank and it doesn't help or fix the problem, then there must be a bigger problem. It contains isopropyl alcohol along with other compounds designed to dissolve the gum and general "gunk" that gets built up in the fuel system. I only regret that I didn't have the common sense to use it sooner. I get my Sea Foam from NAPA. If you don't have a NAPA close by, you can probably order it online. Here's a quick link:

http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm

With regard to weight, I don't really want to hurt the comfort level or style of my car. It is true that I could reduce a lot of weight by removing all sorts of unnecessary items, but I like my comforts far too much for that. I have removed the spare tire, and I'll probably remove the jack too. Of course, my sound system in the rear adds a bit to the weight, but not too much. Maybe 35 pounds or so. Personally, I like the Buick motto of "going fast with class." You've got all the luxury, plus it's a more convincing "sleeper" for the street. I'd like to take it to the local 1/8 mile to take some runs, but I don't know when that'll be. It sure needs some tires, too, and an alignment...

I've used "0-60 booster" in the past, which is just Prestone's brand of octane booster. It does make some difference, since the ignition can time for more advance, but it's pricey also.

I've thought about bypassing the A/C or dropping it altogether, but I learned that the A/C doesn't hurt your performance unless it's running. Since I just figured out last summer how to make the compressor work in the absence of a signal from the automatic climate control, I'd just as soon keep the A/C totally intact. It gets hot here in WV in the summer. :cry:

I've also thought about smaller tires, haha. I really don't know if they would help that much, because the car is faster in OD than D. That causes me to think that the car likes the taller gears. Smaller tires give a similar effect as shorter gears.

I really am not sure what to do next about performance, besides decent tires. I don't want to mess around with engine internals, since the car is running so well. No use in changing what is working well. A better exhaust would go a long way. I would also really like higher ratio rockers, with a stiffer design and roller tips.

Some boost would really wake the car up. I'd have to really check the motor out throroughly first, though. I don't think the car could handle going from an 8.66 0-60 to a mid-7 or less time. Then there's the tranny, which the guy from domestic performance claims is very strong, but I have concerns.

DK

88delta88 · Joined: 09 Jun 2003 Posts: 2401 Location: Canada

Thanks, DK i'll look at that sea foam... We've got a napa here...

I've got concerns about my tranny too... So many different opinions on our trannies, people say they're garbage more often than not though...

86Delta · Joined: 06 Nov 2003 Posts: 281 Location: NJ, USA

in regards to the transmissions in these cars, an extra trans cooler and a lighter right foot go a long way. once i stopped doing emergency brake burn outs and having the 1-2 shift at 45 mph on a daily basis, my trans has lasted alot longer.

my transmission history:

trans that came in the car (already rebuilt once) lasted around 2000 miles for me

i put in a jasper trans, lasted around 15,000, warrantied it, turns out it had a defective torque converter.

2nd jasper lasted 12,000 miles, wore out the first gear band so it chattered like hell. warrantied it.

3rd jasper lasted 18,000, stopped shifting and wore out the first gear band.

had trans rebuilt locally, been in there for 86,000 miles. a lighter foot and a cooler helped it.

DKnight · Joined: 10 Nov 2003 Posts: 63 Location: Huntington, WV

B&M "Trick Shift" ATF really helps our cars. Firms up shifts.

DK

BigBlockOlds · Joined: 04 Jan 2004 Posts: 171 Location: Ohio

Hmmmmmm......sounds like its not a good idea to buy a Jasper trans with that kind of reputation.

86Delta wrote:

i put in a jasper trans, lasted around 15,000, warrantied it, turns out it had a defective torque converter.

2nd jasper lasted 12,000 miles, wore out the first gear band so it chattered like hell. warrantied it.

3rd jasper lasted 18,000, stopped shifting and wore out the first gear band.

had trans rebuilt locally, been in there for 86,000 miles. a lighter foot and a cooler helped it.

86Delta · Joined: 06 Nov 2003 Posts: 281 Location: NJ, USA

Jasper's are hit or miss. the RWD transmissions seem to hold up well i have done a few 700R4's and a couple Dodge overdrive transmissions. i have done a few Jasper's in Chrysler FWD cars with good results. the warranty is great though, 3 years, 75,000 miles and pretty much no questions asked.

BigBlockOlds · Joined: 04 Jan 2004 Posts: 171 Location: Ohio

Yeah but if you have to replace one every 10,000 miles it would just get old. I wouldn't want my car at the trans shop that much. :(

86Delta wrote: the warranty is great though, 3 years, 75,000 miles and pretty much no questions asked.

86Delta · Joined: 06 Nov 2003 Posts: 281 Location: NJ, USA

warranty also covers labor. and doing it the second time is alot easier than the first. by the book the trans in my car is supposed to take 8 hours, i have it down to around 5.5-6. but so far no other Jasper's besides mine have come back, knock on wood.

BigBlockOlds · Joined: 04 Jan 2004 Posts: 171 Location: Ohio

Well its good that it covers labor. But my problem would be that if it was my only car, and the trans would go out every 10,000 miles, I wouldn't want it to be at the shop that often even if I didn't have to pay for it.

86Delta wrote: warranty also covers labor. and doing it the second time is alot easier than the first. by the book the trans in my car is supposed to take 8 hours, i have it down to around 5.5-6. but so far no other Jasper's besides mine have come back, knock on wood.

strokercutlass · Joined: 09 Jun 2003 Posts: 379 Location: Wis

DK, B&M trick shift is basically nothing more than 1/2 a quart of Dextron 3, and 1/2 a quart of Type F transmission fluid...you can mix yourself 2 quarts of "trick shift" for less than you can buy one brand name quart of B&M trick shift

88delta88 · Joined: 09 Jun 2003 Posts: 2401 Location: Canada

Thats an interesting tid-bit, stroker... I'll try that out...

Whats the deal with those "tranny honey" or whatever it's commonly reffered to as? I used a small bottle in my tranny a while back to try and fix sloppy shifts... I dont recall it ever changing anything.

86delta, i cant beleive how much tranny work you've done on your car!!! I hope mine doesnt get that bad... I'll baby it...

86Delta · Joined: 06 Nov 2003 Posts: 281 Location: NJ, USA

oh yeah, i forgot one more thing. 20,000 miles after i installed the current trans it had to come out because the front seal was leaking, had to do the converter too because the bushing was working it's way out of it. pulling the trans in my car used to be a yearly ritual, not anymore. knock on wood.

DKnight · Joined: 10 Nov 2003 Posts: 63 Location: Huntington, WV

86Delta...does your tranny have overdrive? I'm thinking we have different trannies. I drive mine in OD pretty much always for gas mileage, plus I think it's easier on the motor. I don't know if it makes any difference on the durability of the tranny or not.

DK