The Oldsmobile Connection

91parkave · Joined: 29 May 2007 Posts: 516

yea i believe the wires are orange and black IIRC,look in the wire conduit that comes down on the left side trunk hinge. pull a little off and look for the wires. or you could wire your 12v positive to your amp turn on wire and groung of the amp then your light will be on whenever the ignition is on.

Brando · Joined: 06 Jun 2003 Posts: 3042 Location: Michigan, USA

91parkave wrote: or you could wire your 12v positive to your amp turn on wire and groung of the amp then your light will be on whenever the ignition is on.

Using a relay of course, since the remote wire is very low current and is only meant to send a few milliamps of current to tell an amp to turn on.

More on the usage of relays can be found here:
http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm wrote: the average remote lead can only handle about one half of an amp of current.

Some head units have fused remote leads, others don't (recommend to put a .5 amp glass fuse in place if not)...if you were to hook the neon up directly to your head unit's remote wire without the use of a relay, you would most likely end up replacing a fuse or sending it in for repair because your burned the output transistor.

http://www.bcae1.com/headunit.htm wrote: Most remote outputs are switched through a very small transistor. This means that they are EASILY damaged by excessive current flow. They should be fused close to the head unit with a .5 amp fuse. A 1 amp fuse may not protect the switching transistor, which supplies power to the remote output. Do not try to use the remote output to power fans directly.

TOC Admin
Brando

91parkave · Joined: 29 May 2007 Posts: 516

sorry i forgot to mention my remote turn on wire is fused and not coming from my radio i used another ignition source. Sorry bout the confusion and thanks to brando for catching that.

91parkave · Joined: 29 May 2007 Posts: 516

88_Cutlass · Joined: 05 Jul 2007 Posts: 17

that looks really good

Brando · Joined: 06 Jun 2003 Posts: 3042 Location: Michigan, USA

You could also replace the stock bulb with an LED bulb...

http://superbrightleds.com/

I used blue LED bulbs in my Delta 88 (dome light and courtesy lights). It looks cool, but you can't see shit if you actually need to read something....like a map. :lol:

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Brando

88delta88 · Joined: 09 Jun 2003 Posts: 2400 Location: Canada

Brando wrote: You could also replace the stock bulb with an LED bulb...

http://superbrightleds.com/

I used blue LED bulbs in my Delta 88 (dome light and courtesy lights). It looks cool, but you can't see shit if you actually need to read something....like a map. :lol:

TOC Admin
Brando

OOOohh, I like the UV ones... Might have to check into that...

raskull · Joined: 06 Jul 2007 Posts: 100 Location: Worcester, MA

So i got those 8inch neon strips, and they pretty much will fit anywhere. Right now they're jerry-rigged off the contacts of the the stock trunk light which is now hanging out of the top of the trunk. One of the strips is enough to light up the trunk at night so I'm still trying to find away to rig one of them to turn on when the bass hits (maybe way in the back, behind the sub woofer so it produces a cool ambient light. I looked around online and it seems like you have to buy certain controllers or something. I guess splicing the light to the sub woofer wires is really bad news because it changes the power requirement from the amp... or something...? I dunno.

I'm open to suggestions, if there is a cheap way to do it, I'm all ears, otherwise I'll prob just mount both of them on either side of the trunk behind the tail lights or up above everything.

88delta88 · Joined: 09 Jun 2003 Posts: 2400 Location: Canada

look for a neon with the sound activated function... There are a lot of them out there, for quite cheap, and have sound sensitivity adjustments.

Trying to make your current neons dance to sound will be tough.

raskull · Joined: 06 Jul 2007 Posts: 100 Location: Worcester, MA

alright. i thought this would be really simple since i already pulled the wires out so i could hook up my trunk neon but its all fouled up now.

The jerry-rigged version had the trunk light assembly hanging out and the trunk neon wires just tucked under the trunk light contacts. It was working pretty well but everything was floating around and hanging and looked very ugly of course.

I cut the assembly off the wires and put the connectors on but when i attached the neon lights...nothing. I touched them to the contacts on the capacitor and the lit up, but nothing was coming from the trunk light wires. I figured I shorted out something so i went to check the fuses and they were all fine (I think). What did I do?

The dome lights don't go on either.

ps when i went to go see the owners manual it was telling me the fusebox was under the hood and i was getting really confused. Turns out, the manual i picked up was for my previous car, 94 volvo 850 lol Woops.

Anyway, if any of you guys know what the hell is going on, let me know.

91parkave · Joined: 29 May 2007 Posts: 516

there are 2 use boxes insode the car one above to the left of the brake pedal, the other one is located on the passanger side kick panel location which requires removal of the bottom trim panel to access. the main location is under the hood against the firewall beneath a a removable panel.The two inner fuse boxes should be the location of the blown fuses though. good luck and if you have a problem finding if the fuse is good just buy a fuse tester from autozone it comes in handy....trust me

88 Coupe · Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 2:23 am Post subject: Re: Trunk Neon/LEDs

91buickman wrote: ........ buy a fuse tester from autozone it comes in handy ........
How does a fuse tester work?

Does it do the job any more efficiently than a VOM?

Norm

91parkave · Joined: 29 May 2007 Posts: 516

because its made to the width of a regular and mini fuses, simply place it on top and a green light comes on to tell you if its good alot faster than having to use a VOM anyday.

88 Coupe · Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 7:48 pm Post subject: Re: Trunk Neon/LEDs

91buickman wrote: because its made to the width of a regular and mini fuses ........
So, the fuse must be removed in order to test it?

91buickman wrote: ........ alot faster than having to use a VOM anyday ........
So, while troubleshooting an electrical problem, one would put down a VOM, go to his/her toolbox, to get a fuse tester. A special tool that will do the same job as the VOM, that was abandoned. Then remove a fuse and insert it into that dedicated fuse tester.

Tel us again, how much quicker the fuse tester is, than a VOM?

Norm

91parkave · Joined: 29 May 2007 Posts: 516

88 Coupe wrote:
So, the fuse must be removed in order to test it?

No the fuse isnt to be pulled, thats why fuse tester is faster to use

88 Coupe wrote:
So, while troubleshooting an electrical problem, one would put down a VOM, go to his/her toolbox, to get a fuse tester. A special tool that will do the same job as the VOM, that was abandoned. Then remove a fuse and insert it into that dedicated fuse tester.

Tel us again, how much quicker the fuse tester is, than a VOM?

Lay down the beer for a minute and quit putting false wordsout......yes a fuse tester is faster to test fuses, no one said jack about not using a VOM if they felt the need to BTW this tool is 2-3bucks nothing special or expensive next time you get out , go take a look at one im sure youll be elated.....

MArshall[/QUOTE]