The Oldsmobile Connection

Brando · Joined: 06 Jun 2003 Posts: 3060 Location: Michigan, USA

I have two of these fuse testers you speak of, they came with my littelfuse MINI and ATO fuse kits. Both kits came with the same tester, they can test mini or the larger ATO fuses....works pretty good and as said..fuses don't need to be pulled. The other end of the tester is for pulling the fuses out.

TOC Admin
Brando

andrewk · Joined: 18 May 2005 Posts: 1238 Location: Ames, IA

I would still use a VOM. If you have one of decent quality, it may have an option for an audible beep if there is continuity, or at least mine does. This would be much faster than one of those little testers, and you should be using it anyway. The one I have you have to mess with a little for it to make a decent connection.

I believe the point Norm is trying to make is why would you go and use that tester when you already should be using a VOM to diagnose the electrical problem in the first place? If you are holding the tool needed, why get a different one? It is an inefficient use of time and an unnecessary step in the diagnosis of his problem.

But I'll let him speak for himself.

91parkave · Joined: 29 May 2007 Posts: 518

yes a volt meter will diagnose a electrical problem but a fuse tester is much more effiecent and faster at doing the same thing. Sooooo why not?
why sit there and attach the negative somewhere and position the positive right on top of the fuse in that area then look at your meter or listen for voltage when the fuse tester goes right on top and a green light comes on if good? simple as that? guess its a mtter of working.....smarter not herder??

andrewk · Joined: 18 May 2005 Posts: 1238 Location: Ames, IA

91parkave wrote: yes a volt meter will diagnose a electrical problem but a fuse tester is much more effiecent and faster at doing the same thing. Sooooo why not?
why sit there and attach the negative somewhere and position the positive right on top of the fuse in that area then look at your meter or listen for voltage when the fuse tester goes right on top and a green light comes on if good? simple as that? guess its a mtter of working.....smarter not herder??

You don't listen for voltage, lol. VOM, means Volt-Ohm Meter. An Ohm is the SI unit of resistance, or I=V/R, where I=current, V=voltage, and R=Resistance. Continuity is another word for testing that there is a circuit there, not power. You would put the test leads on each side of the fuse, and listen for a beep. It would be just as fast as that tester. I own one of those testers, and I find them to be a pain in the butt to use.

I am not a Shepard, so I don't know much about herding, or being a herder, but I do think its funny you mention working smart... That speaks for itself.

88 Coupe · Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 11:19 pm Post subject: Re: Trunk Neon/LEDs

91buickman wrote: Lay down the beer for a minute ........
Grow up.

91buickman wrote: ........ and quit putting false wordsout .......
Post the quote.

91buickman wrote: ........ a fuse tester is faster to test fuses ........
Yes. You already said that. Twice.

91buickman wrote: ........ no one said jack about not using a VOM if they felt the need to ........
No one said anyone did.

91buickman wrote: ........ this tool is 2-3bucks nothing special or expensive ........
Wouldn't that buy a couple of beers?

Quote: ........ next time you get out , go take a look at one im sure youll be elated ........
Grow up.

Norm

88 Coupe · Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 11:34 pm Post subject: Re: Trunk Neon/LEDs

91buickman wrote: ........ why sit there and attach the negative somewhere ........
If one is only testing the fuse, the neg goes on one end, while the positive goes on the other.

If the fuse checks OK, one moves the probes to the fuse connections, then to the rest of the circuit. What is the next step, if one is using your fuse tester?

Norm

91parkave · Joined: 29 May 2007 Posts: 518

andrewk wrote:

You don't listen for voltage, lol. VOM, means Volt-Ohm Meter. An Ohm is the SI unit of resistance, or I=V/R, where I=current, V=voltage, and R=Resistance. Continuity is another word for testing that there is a circuit there, not power. You would put the test leads on each side of the fuse, and listen for a beep. It would be just as fast as that tester. I own one of those testers, and I find them to be a pain in the butt to use.

Thats your opinion, my volt meter if set, when voltage is present it will beep, the rest of your statment is ignored.

andrewk wrote:
I am not a Shepard, so I don't know much about herding, or being a herder, but I do think its funny you mention working smart... That speaks for itself.

I see you had fun in philosophy class today, working smart=using a simple device to test a fuse with out removal quick and easy =smart[/QUOTE]

andrewk · Joined: 18 May 2005 Posts: 1238 Location: Ames, IA

91parkave wrote:

Thats your opinion

And it is based on years of experience.

Quote: my volt meter if set, when voltage is present it will beep, the rest of your statment is ignored.

Lets see the meter. I could use this in my line of work. Have a model number or a picture you could show us? Who makes it?

Quote: I see you had fun in philosophy class today, working smart=using a simple device to test a fuse with out removal quick and easy =smart

I think you missed what the statement meant. Regardless, it doesn't get much easier than this-

Andrew

raskull · Joined: 06 Jul 2007 Posts: 101 Location: Worcester, MA

anyway... i blew the fuse. i found it and replaced it. No biggie. didn't need a tester. So as of right now, one of 8 inch tubes is in the front and connected the the passenger door light so it goes on when the doors are open. the other one is in he trunk connected to the trunk open light. In the mail, right now, are 4 15" sound sensitive neon tubes that i got cheap off ebay. These ones light up to whatever frequency you want them to, or you have them stay on all the time.

The question here is, what can i connect them to for a power source thats on when the car is on. I want to put one in the front with the other 8" and 2 behind the seats in the back and one in the trunk. What can i connect them too so they turn on when the car comes on?

88delta88 · Joined: 09 Jun 2003 Posts: 2407 Location: Canada

Good to know, raskull. This thread was starting to develop that "seinfeld" type ambiance to it.

You'll need to run a wire from your fuse panel to the desired locations. Since you are running only a few neon lights, you should be safe wiring direct off a fuse, without a relay. Choose a fuse that is live when your radio is turned on. (Grab your volt-meter again!)

You may also want to hook a toggle switch up to this line so you can turn the mood lights on and off at will. Sometimes, the mood lights get annoying on the highway at night. The ability to turn them off is a major plus.

raskull · Joined: 06 Jul 2007 Posts: 101 Location: Worcester, MA

how would i go about wiring anything from the fuse panel, and what gauge wire will i need? would i be ok wiring 4 of these lights to one fuse? series, parallel?

88delta88 · Joined: 09 Jun 2003 Posts: 2407 Location: Canada

raskull wrote: how would i go about wiring anything from the fuse panel, and what gauge wire will i need? would i be ok wiring 4 of these lights to one fuse? series, parallel?

Fuse Taps are available for this specific reason. I am assuming you are familiar with crimp-spade connectors (with plastic sheilds of course). Most toggle switches accept the same connector.

The 4 lights are perfectly fine being wired in Parallel. Wiring in series is not recommended. I would use a 14-18 gauge wire. Worst part about the whole thing is running the wire to where is needs to go.

raskull · Joined: 06 Jul 2007 Posts: 101 Location: Worcester, MA

got the neon today. just wondering, which fuse should i connect them all too? 15, 20 amp? does it matter?

raskull · Joined: 06 Jul 2007 Posts: 101 Location: Worcester, MA

i got fuse taps and some wire this week. i had a lot of trouble putting the taps on the fuse and fitting everything together. i wasn't able to do it, it just didn't fit. any suggestions?

raskull · Joined: 06 Jul 2007 Posts: 101 Location: Worcester, MA

ok...so heres the deal. i got the fuse taps and i forced them into a 15 amp fuse and i connected the neon to it. Nothing. I tried it again with the car on, nothing happened. I went to my trunk and tried it with the wires connected to the terminals on my capacitor, nothing. I figured maybe something was broken with that set, so i switched up the sound sensor with one of the other ones. It worked in the trunk running off the capacitor, so i brought it back to the frotn where i tried it with the fuse taps on the fuse and nothing happened. when i brought that set back to the trunk, it didn't work there either. I think i wrecked the sound sensors by using the fuse taps. i have 4 neon tubes and 4 sensors, but 2 tubes can go to one sensor. If i mess it up again, then im screwed.

Whats going on?