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Cutlass95Ciera
Joined: 27 Jun 2003
Posts: 433
Location: Portage, Michigan
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| Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2003 4:15 pm Post subject: Paint Job |
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| My car has two big rust spots that i was working on fixing today. As i was doing this i realised that there are small spots poping up all over my car. I am wondering if I should just get it painted. I have no idea how much it would cost, and i dont want to get one really cheep and have it suck. If I got it painted i would expect it to last for many years, or at least until i can get another car to drive in the winter :lol: If anyone has any info about paint jobs please let me know. |
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Primer Death
Joined: 08 Jun 2003
Posts: 102
Location: Maine
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| Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2003 6:23 pm Post subject: |
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well, If you know anybody that has a air compressor, ask if you can use it... they sell the paint sprayers at Auto-Zone ect. Then if you were going straight enamel you'd end up spending about $300-$400 for paint, primer , and hardener for the paint (spray cans have it in them already). I have a friend that will paint your car for about $2,000... He does an excellent jobs and loves to customize...expect about $2,000-$4,000 for some one else to do the paint jobs...The metalic paint cost more, and specialty paints cost more... you can go OEM, or they usually have a book of colors to choose from... rember to prep the plastic and fiberglass parts, unless you want the front of it looking like the front of the Formula 455! :roll: and if you have used Bondo, use spot-puddy to finish the bondo, makes the paint stick better.
1. Enamel (best)
2. Acrylic (never tried it)
3. Clearcoat (sucks ass; peels) |
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88delta88
Joined: 09 Jun 2003
Posts: 2407
Location: Canada
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| Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 10:15 am Post subject: |
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I tried painting before... It turned out ok. I painted my white caprice, which (so i am told) white is the easiest and most forgiving color to work with... I assume you are painting red? I dont know about red, but I did work with my silver probe, and painted the hood and roof, and it turned out sooooo bad! If you do decide to do it your self, DONT RUSH!!! Make sure you have the body work PERFECT! you cant see imperfections until you're done painting, and wish you'd have spent more time!
Not trying to scare you away from learning a new trade or anything! |
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Cutlass95Ciera
Joined: 27 Jun 2003
Posts: 433
Location: Portage, Michigan
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| Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 1:01 pm Post subject: |
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| No i'm thinking of painting white so that makes me feel a little more comfterable with the painting part. I already took thursday and friday off from work next week so i can have two days to sand down the rust spots and stuff. I also found out that my friends dad has a compresser and he would paint if for 400 bux, of course after i fix all the rust spots and stuff. I'm not sure if i'm gonna let him do it, or if i want to do it myself. I'm still gonna sand it down and put on primer before winter hits! |
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Treefiddy
Joined: 05 Oct 2003
Posts: 1
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| Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2003 10:10 pm Post subject: |
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Primer Death wrote:
1. Enamel (best)
2. Acrylic (never tried it)
3. Clearcoat (sucks ass; peels)
If done properly basecoat/clearcoat paint job is very durable and can look better than a single stage job. Its all in the prep work and the materials used. I painted a Cavalier bright red slightly more than a year ago in an acrylic enamel and it has faded almost to a dark pink color. And I painted a Caravan about 3 years ago in a base clear and it still looks new.If you skimp on materials then yes you can expect shoddy results but If you spend the money up front to do it right then it will be fine. |
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bdyman
Joined: 19 May 2004
Posts: 161
Location: chicago baby!!!!
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| Posted: Wed May 19, 2004 4:10 pm Post subject: http://www.oldsconnection.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=2 |
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lol...ok people people we don`t use single stage any more unless for frames, and work trucks, parts stuff like that
to properly fix your rust, 2 chioces i would do
1st: i would lightly grind the rust with my small die grinder
then go over with 80 then 120 then feather edge the paint with 240
i use ppg so i would use 271 it`s a corrosion resistent primer filler
wet sand with 320 then 400 then 600 then use 3m`s prep blend with a grey scuff pad rinse with water and mask off for paint
2nd: sand blast use steps above shortend version :)
as far as paint is concerned.....base and clear is polyurathene
i charge starting price for a full paint job $3,000 to $6,000
your body work could be strait as an arrow but if your prep work is shit you will have a bad paint job
good prep work is the key!!!!
if you do not use a corrsion resistnet primer you need to use a self etching sealer or a substrate beneath you primer filler
hence the the ppg product ncx 271
a good quality clear for the garage is omni made by ppg
there is still so much more but iam not goin to make this any longer
any more questions feel free to ask |
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justinwebb
Joined: 22 Apr 2004
Posts: 315
Location: Pataskala, OH
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| Posted: Thu May 20, 2004 12:06 am Post subject: |
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| i need to get mine repained has a few rock chips here and there and a big ass key mark down the side |
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Brianritchie21787
Joined: 08 Feb 2004
Posts: 270
Location: Tolland, CT, USA
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| Posted: Thu May 20, 2004 8:05 pm Post subject: |
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| macco did a decent job painting mine for 300$, but i dont expect it to last that long |
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bdyman
Joined: 19 May 2004
Posts: 161
Location: chicago baby!!!!
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| Posted: Thu May 20, 2004 8:36 pm Post subject: http://www.oldsconnection.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=2 |
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holy crap!!!
no it won`t last long only if you pay extra for them to prep it
you get what you pay for |
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