| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
The J MAN
Joined: 13 Apr 2004
Posts: 21
|
| Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 10:01 am Post subject: HELP!!! Oil leaking near the tranmission |
|
|
Hey guys i told u all earlier that i bought that 1992 camaro rs 3.1 V6 it runs alsome but lately i noticed oil on the garage floor were i park and it look like it leaking oil near the transmisson or it may just be spraying it to there can u help me figure out watz up!!!! (is there a oil line near there or something)
Help would be appriciated THANKS!!! |
|
| Back to top |
|
GraveReaper0
Joined: 09 Sep 2004
Posts: 423
Location: Windy Chicago
|
| Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 2:06 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| we need more details, it could be anything. Can you take some pics maybe? |
|
| Back to top |
|
88delta88
Joined: 09 Jun 2003
Posts: 2407
Location: Canada
|
| Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 3:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
MOST oil leaks that only leak a few spots on the floor, are usually caused by loose oil pan bolts. Check them, but dont strip them!!! :-)
After that, you'll likely want to check the oil pan gasket, then the engine crankshaft bearings and so-on and so-forth... Start with the oil pan.
Degrease the underside of the car, so you can watch where the fresh oil leaks from. It'll be pretty apparent within a week or so where the leak is. |
|
| Back to top |
|
Turbocharged400sbc
Joined: 18 Aug 2004
Posts: 318
|
| Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 9:50 pm Post subject: |
|
|
92 3.1L and later 3100's have an oil pump drive (it's prettymuch the lower half of a distributor with the cam gear that just engages the oil pump drive shaft) near the belhousing (under the Throttle body on FWD), the upper part of it goes right through the main oil galley (under pressure) with an O ring just above it.
this is a VERY common oil leak on these engines (FWD/RWD you name it, also the 2.8L and 3.4L DOHC/later 3400's also have the same exact setup that leaks on these engines too!) it will prob be difficult to see on your firebird but it's there. it's prob the reason it was for sale as the RWD cars cost more to repair (replace a 2$ o ring) because of the pain in getting to it. the book time for a FWD is usually around 1.5 hrs and i have done enough of them to have it down to a 30 min. job (and i still get paid for book time) but it's been a while since i did a RWD (not manny on the rd as you may guess) at least you dont have the 3.4L DOHC as the book time is over 4-5 hrs (they want you to pull the cyl head to get to it!-i know the trick to do it without removing the head, just the lower intake! saves allot of work!).
In a RWD layout the oil pump drive is offset towards the Passengers side of the car aprox 2 inches forward (towards the front of the car) of where the tranny bolts to the engine block. If the engine has road grime on it you will notice a clean "flow line" where the oil has rinsed the crud off over time. Otherwise to check just spray it down with Brake cleaner, blow it off and let the engine idle for 10-60 minutes (depends on how many places the O ring cracked) and you will find a small stream of oil flowing down the pass side of your block down towards the oil pan.
this is a very common problem on these engines, it may be an oil pan or rear main seal but i havent done ANY rear main seals on these types of engines (one piece) and the only oil pans are from accident cars or chicks parking the pan hard onto a parking block, driving over large curbs (usually in winter when they "didn't see it").
hope i could shed some light on the subject fer ya! Schlim |
|
| Back to top |
|
| |