OK, so this summer, I plan to tackle the family heirloom....the 87' delta 88

The WORST part of the car is the doors! That's the only place where rust is forming, other than a little rust on the rear quarters and front fenders. Otherwise, the rest is faded paint.

So what tools would be necessary for the body work? Angle grinder? Already got a nice air compressor, need to get an HVLP sprayer. Add a air regulator/filter to take moisture and any junk out of the air line so it doesn't get in the paint.

If I go to the junk yard and find a delta 88 sedan with good doors, I plan to look for ones with power windows and power locks already installed since mine doesn't have them. What would I need? Is there a module for the door locks and power windows? Or does it wire straight to the fuse box?

Questions and more questions to come I am sure. Please feel free to share your auto body experiences also.....especially bdyman!

TOC Admin
Brando

Power door locks are 3 wires. 12V, Unlock and Lock. There are no fancy modules, just a couple wires to run! Some of the GM's were 5 wire, but ours are very simple...

Power windows I think would be a bit more of a challenge, but again, no modules, just wiring. I think there are more like 8 or 10 wires in the harness on the driver door, to control all 4 doors independently.

Good luck on that project, brando, I'll be doing a lot of work on mine aswell this spring. I've got a front end to finish repairing. I have to decide whether to try and paint just the nose of the car, or try painting the whole thing...

it sounds like the rust has gone all the way through very common on those cars and the buick riviera i know i had a 85 riv but luckily no rust
but anyway.......get some pic`s of the rust so i can furture help ya out on the rust prob
to re build the car the righ way strip the whole car down all mouldings all chrome window mouldings i mean everything
2 way to strip the car donw in mechanicly or chemically air craft stripper is the best way apply it put a sheet of plastic over the area and watch it bubble right off use a scraper scrape off the paint then wipe down with water and remove the remaining paint usind your D.A.with 80 grit paper
the other way is to strip it with a 8 inch grinder using 40 grit now u need allot of experience with that because the high rpm grinder and need to move the grinder at a certain speed and a certain pressure on the metal if too hot the metal will warp
body tools go go to autobodytoolmart.com you will need your basic body hammer and dollies a D.A. angle grinder or die grinder of course hand tools spray guns depends on your price i highly recommend sata guns below that for a beginner sharpe guns will work as good
you should have a gun for primer, sealer,and base, and clear primer gun should be about 1.5 tip sealer tip should be 1.4 base should be 1.3 and clear should be 1.4 now that what i use and reccomend for today`s polyurathene products
so i need to see a pic of the rust so i can steer you in the right direction

Brando, hows the body work comin along?

I ripped all the red front end parts off my car on the weekend, sanded them down, primed, painted, wet sanded, and layed another two coats on them. They turned out EXCELLENT, (IMO) and now need a good polish after it cures.

I put them all back on the car, and the color match is AWESOME. I couldnt have asked for better! I have some alignment problems with the bumper and my header, but nothing major.

All I've got left to do is fix my hood, and the passenger fender needs some paint right behind the cornering light.

bdyman,
When you mean a gun for primer, sealer, base, and clear. Do you mean a separate gun for each one, or you mean a tip for each one? 1.4mm to 1.5mm I am confused as to how such small changes in measurement could make such a difference? please explain, would I just use a 1.4mm tip for all of them? Or is there something I am missing.

I checked out the Sharpe spray guns (SATA were a little out of my price range), and they look good, but any comments on this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=43430
(1.4mm tip)?

I will try and get some pics soon....currently snowing outside

88delta88, haven't started yet...still have a lot of preparation to do before I actually get started!

TOC Admin
Brando

Would THIS work good for rust removal? Just give it a good sand blast? (I'm serious)

TOC Admin
Brando

yes the spot sand blaster will work fine on small spots of rust for larger spots of course ya need a bigger blaster, yes sand blasting is the best way to remove rust but it`s very messy and it goes everywhere
ok and on the fluid tip i use different sizes to atomize the material differently
primer needs a bigger tip due to the higher film build sealer should use about 1.4 base use 1.3 claer use 1.4 some guys use 1.5 and no that`s a cheap ass gun maybe for primer stick with a brand name not a cheap immatation
go to autobodytoolmart.com and check out their stuff

Hi Brando, hello all,


I have a Harbor freight store locally. They have some good stuff, some OK stuff, and some less than OK stuff.

They are an outstanding example of why I don't buy off the internet, or by mail order.

I prefer to verify the quality of an item by holding, feeling, visually inspecting, and tasting it.

Regards, Norm

Well, I've ordered from them before....several times, bought my air tools from them, and they all work great...no complaints on anything I've bought from them...

TOC Admin
Brando

Hi Brando, all,


Most of my air tools are from there also. CP tools are not shop quality, but are fine for home use.

After thinking about it, they would only list their better stuff on the www.

Regards, Norm

here at work, a year ago, my boss bought a FULL truck load straight from harbour freight. It was damaged/surplus stuff, but there was amazing things on that truck...

All the products they sell are base line, but shit, if you are just looking for a grinder to use ocasionally, why not? Cant beat thier prices on a lot of stuff.

Yea...bringing this topic back...definately spend money on a good spray gun...

I've used a cheapo spray gun (suction type with canister on bottom) to paint a tractor...it's not cool. Granted it is just a tractor...but still. I've also used high end SATA and Devilbiss spray guns, and the quality and speed of the job compared to a cheapo spray gun is second to none.

Also, Norm mentioned CP tools are not shop quality. Central Pneumatic or Chicago Pneumatic?

TOC Admin
Brando

Hi Brando, All,


Been using Central Pneumatic, from Harbor freight, at home for a few years. Several drops of Marvel Mystery Oil before each use, and never had a problem. Of course, they go months with no use.

Used Chicago Pneumatic when I wrenched for a living. Don't know about the quality these days.

Regards, Norm

Apparently I never replied...

But when I was taking my second auto body class I believe it was, the Chicago Pneumatic guy came in.

He linked the CP7750 up to the IR2135T

The Chicago Pneumatic is rated at 800 ft lbs and the Ingersoll-Rand at 1000 ft lbs.

The Chicago Pneumatic overpowered the Ingersoll-Rand, he even let the student holding the Ingersoll-Rand get a head start. As you can see, it is also $40 cheaper than the IR.

*end sales pitch*



I am in no way affiliated with Chicago Pneumatic, other than owning a few of their tools...

TOC Admin
Brando

No problem, I'm used to being ignored.


Sounds like a pizzing contest. With few, if any, exceptions, 300 fp would be overkill.

Norm