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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 11:49 pm 
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well if you look at what i did i took that frenched pocket and sliced it open to make it a open french, so imagine if you will that pocket is covered with metal that would make it a deep french, i just opened the pocket up to expose the tail light


I was familiar with frenching before, but had wondered just how you did it on the taillight- Thanks for taking the time to show how you did it.

On the plastic work- what sort of plastic welder did you use? The pics aren't that big, but the seams seem to be pretty non-existant...



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 5:45 pm 
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87Delta wrote:
........ I appreciate the clean stock vehicles over "modded" ones.

Not what you said in your first post, but it is what a mature adult might have said if (big if) he/she had said anything at all.

Norm



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 11:50 pm 
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this is the begining stage, here i was still cutting and shaping, getting ready to french the pocket
i use a airless welder, when i had the desired cut and shape, as you see both sides of the plstic were grinded down

then to hold it in place i melted the corners on bothj sides, using the supplied rod in my kit, i will get to that a bit later, once the front was welded shut i let it cool off over night

and shaped with my grinder, before i go any further lets get to know plastic, there are allot of different plastic used on cars today rangeing from polyurathene to ABS

the easiest plastic to work with and retains its shape it polyurathene, it is a non offlien thermo plastic it does not need adheshion promoter for a adhesive to stick

lets move on to PP/TPO/TPE/TEO all those are the most commonly used plastic on a car today, those are offlien, thermo-set plastic, which mean it needs a adheshion promoter for any repair material to stick, so with that being said lets continue.....................................

so now i have the desired shape on the outside i used fusor repair material laid a repair backing first its a plastic mesh, then a adheshion promoter becasue it is TPO plastic, that dries for 20 mins, then i applied the meterial

after grinding the out side i blocked with 80, to make the lines crisp and clean, applied adheshion promoter, dried, then fusor mtaerial, next day started to shape the material, once plastic is promoted no need for more, then i applied more material where needed, then i used fusors skim coat plastic material

no need for flexable primer, or primer for plastic, the primer of today is nnot only corrossion resistant, but it flexs too, but to a point
primed it once sanded it, primed it the final time and you got a frenched piece of plastic, sounds easy but its not it took me yrs to perfect the repair and customizing of plastic



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how low can you go????........pssssssssttttttttt.....got air???
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:28 pm 
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looks amazing bdyman, love custom work of any sort - takes a lot of time and love to make it look the way you wanted. Very smooth.



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:22 am 
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Location: chicago baby!!!!
thank you , it is for sale too



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2009 11:11 am 
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I see lots of hard and expensive work, Love to see it painted no matter what the color. Andy


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2009 3:10 pm 
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bdyman wrote:
thank you , it is for sale too


You definitely have a talent and I'm impressed with your skill level. However your selling skills really suck. Announcing the car is for sale after you've told everyone earlier that you were going to "...drive the shit out of the car" isn't the best advertising I've ever heard - but at least you're up front about it.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 12:27 am 
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Personally, I don't like it. Too round, and I was never a fan of lowering or the cheesy rims, but to each their own.

I like the older G-bodies, squared off edges, long front ends, big V8's.



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 8:24 pm 
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cool olds! definatly one of a kind.



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