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 Post subject: Re: andrewk
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 7:50 pm 
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Andrew, where do I find this chain? Is there a generic aftermarket source? Need some help...

I checked out sears parts site, the chain is unavailable. Part number 48478. Snowblower is Craftsman model 536.905903.

The chain itself, it's a roller chain, #35, 28-1/8 IN.

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 Post subject: Re: andrewk
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 7:59 pm 
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ok...I found lots of number 35 chains on ebay of various sizes (longer than 28-1/8"). Then I could just get a breaker, some connectors for the extra chain (5ft length). That would work, right?

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 Post subject: Re: andrewk
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 11:29 pm 
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Brando wrote:
ok...I found lots of number 35 chains on ebay of various sizes (longer than 28-1/8"). Then I could just get a breaker, some connectors for the extra chain (5ft length). That would work, right?

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Most dealerships carry it, and should be able to get you a breaking tool. If you do regular business there, they may even let you borrow it. they also might make it for you. They should also be able to order the tool under the Stens or Oregon names. You could also try ebaying this.

You will get a master link with this, similar to an old bike chain. You will be able to just put it together then.

After you put it together, lube the shit out of it with good quality chain lube. You want the stickiest stuff you can find.

What kills these chains is exactly what Brando found- misadjustment. Combined with the moisture they see, they wear and get out of adjustment. When you have a chain go, you need to check the sprockets to ensure there is gear enough left to drive the chain. If the tips of the gear are worn to a point, time to replace those too.

Will go into more detail soon... too much thoughts to write, too much schoolwork to devote my time to.

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 Post subject: Re: andrewk
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 7:46 pm 
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Got a GB Breaker off of eBay, although it seems a punch and hammer would have worked just as well, as the bench mount breaker doesn't push the pins all the way through...so I have to use a punch and hammer...

Got some 10 foot chain and some links, assembled my chain....now I just need to find time to put it on, but I guess I have to get packed for Florida...leaving tomorrow. :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: andrewk
PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 5:40 pm 
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Any of y'all use synthetic or synthetic blend oils in your lawn equipment? Been using the blend for 2 years now and notice when I change the oil every season it looks almost as clean as when I put it in. All my equipment uses it, riding mower, push mower, and power washer.

And anybody know how to get a stubborn nut off for my riding mowers blade? It's severely dull and I can't get the nut off worth a damn. I'm about to just pull the deck off.


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 Post subject: Re: andrewk
PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 6:15 pm 
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87Delta wrote:
Any of y'all use synthetic or synthetic blend oils in your lawn equipment? Been using the blend for 2 years now and notice when I change the oil every season it looks almost as clean as when I put it in. All my equipment uses it, riding mower, push mower, and power washer.

And anybody know how to get a stubborn nut off for my riding mowers blade? It's severely dull and I can't get the nut off worth a damn. I'm about to just pull the deck off.


We use Opti-4, which is a full synthetic oil in units where a customer requests it. Otherwise its straight SAE 30 or 10w30, depending on engine manufacturer. Nothing wrong with it, but there was nothing wrong with the dino stuff either- These engines, when properly maintained and used, don't see the stress and harsh operating conditions that a car does.

As far as your blade goes, there are a couple different ways to go about this. First, you need to get access to the blade nut. If its a rear engine rider that you can tip up on end, then do so, if its a regular tractor, drop the deck.

Then you need to either get an impact wrench, a breaker bar with a block of wood, or whats called a 'blade buster'. These are available at most dealerships that deal with Oregon aftermarket products, formerly Silver Streak. The blade buster locks the blade in place so you can use a breaker bar and break the nut loose. An impact wrench is by far the easiest way to do it, but also the most expensive.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:41 am 
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I figured some other people used synthetic and synthetic blend oils. I never had any problems with it. Every year I buy a 5 quart jug of it and it covers everything.

On the blade, It is a rear-engine rider. I tipped it back and got my largest ratchet and a metal pipe and I still could not get that sucker off. :lol: Not too big of an issue, my yard is smaller thanks to the pool and is flat unlike my old yard. The Self-propelled push mower did a better job anyways and I could use the exercise.

In my Stihl FS 36 (got it for free from my dad who threw it across the yard because it wouldn't run :lol:) weed-eater I am probably the only one who uses racing castor oil in it. I did alot of WOT runs over the years and it still runs like brand new with the occasional tuning problems. The only thing I didn't like was the inability to adjust the carburetor. I know the EPA (I think?) regulates that stuff, but I removed them things for full tunability. Makes it nice for sure!

I like to tinker with stuff :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: andrewk
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 12:45 pm 
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I am probably the only one who uses racing castor oil in it. I did alot of WOT runs over the years and it still runs like brand new with the occasional tuning problems. The only thing I didn't like was the inability to adjust the carburetor. I know the EPA (I think?) regulates that stuff, but I removed them things for full tunability.


:shock: Good luck...



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 Post subject: Re: andrewk
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 1:39 pm 
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andrewk wrote:
:shock: Good luck...


:lol: Been using it like that for 2 years now. Tune it during the start-up season and once mid summer when it gets really hot. Thats it, runs great. 8-)


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 Post subject: Re: andrewk
PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 8:11 pm 
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Put the new chain on today and greased er up. Runs good, but no signs of more snow anytime soon... :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 9:37 am 
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Andrew or anybody that may know about this, I might need some pointers here.

I have an older (1998-2000) self propelled push mower. I absolutely love the mower and the way it cuts, but for some odd reason it's starting to go downhill. For the past 2 years it would smoke just a hair, not it's getting more evident. It's the oil kind of smoke, and you can smell it. Now, I, not only cannot afford a new lawnmower, nor do I want one. This one still has the adjustable throttle control I like and still looks like new :lol:

Question is, how would I go about re-building these "newer" type engines. I've rebuilt old Tecumseh's, but thats it. It's a Briggs 6.5HP model, flathead style. I tore apart a same year 3.5 and saw plastic parts every frickin where. I heard instead of a honer(sp?), you can use like 4000 grit sandpaper to remove the glazing off the cylinder walls? :confused:

If you have any insight on this, it would be greatly appreciated.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 2:49 pm 
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87Delta wrote:
Andrew or anybody that may know about this, I might need some pointers here.

I have an older (1998-2000) self propelled push mower. I absolutely love the mower and the way it cuts, but for some odd reason it's starting to go downhill. For the past 2 years it would smoke just a hair, not it's getting more evident. It's the oil kind of smoke, and you can smell it. Now, I, not only cannot afford a new lawnmower, nor do I want one. This one still has the adjustable throttle control I like and still looks like new :lol:

Question is, how would I go about re-building these "newer" type engines. I've rebuilt old Tecumseh's, but thats it. It's a Briggs 6.5HP model, flathead style. I tore apart a same year 3.5 and saw plastic parts every frickin where. I heard instead of a honer(sp?), you can use like 4000 grit sandpaper to remove the glazing off the cylinder walls? :confused:

If you have any insight on this, it would be greatly appreciated.


Well... the first thing to do is determine why it is smoking. It may not be a mechanical issue at all.

The first thing to do is check the air filter. Is it oil soaked? Wet at all? Clean? Is there any oil or gas sitting in the air horn? What is the oil level? Overfull? Any oil leaks?

Secondly, if that is ok, then you need to do a leak down and compression check. Compression should be no less than 60 pounds, although they will run on 40. Leak down should be no more than 5 percent or so.

FYI, leakdown is checking to see how the valves and rings seal. Compression does the same thing, in a different light. If compression is low, leakdown check it to see why, if its ok, don't worry about it.

3rd thing to do, if this checks out good, is to test for crankcase vac/pressure. A leaking dipstick seal or crankcase seal will suck air, which will pump oil right out of the breather into the carb, soaking the filter and making it smoke like hell.

From here, if all of the above check out, you need to replace the crankcase breather. Highly unlikely that this is the offending component, but it happens.

A second scenario... If the oil level is way overfull, smell it. If it smells like gas, you have some sort of carb sealing problem, because gas is getting into the oil. This will also make it smoke like hell.

#1 cause of smoke- plugged air filter.

It could also be that it's shot, but you will know when you do a compression check.

If you decide to rebuild, look into the price of a shortblock first... this may be eaiser for you. Otherwise, you will need an oversized piston and rings and a new rod, for sure. You will need to mic the crank, and make sure the journal wear is within limits, otherwise its crank grinding time and an undersized rod. That sandpaper trick is a backyard tactic that rarely works. If you have wear, you need to have the block honed. Period. Unless you want to do it twice, then go ahead.

The plastic you see is the governor gear, and maybe the oil pickup. There isnt alot of plastic inside these. If you have done a flat head tecumesh, then you have done one of these. If its still the L-head design, it uses the same technology they have been using for 70 plus years. 'newer style' would be OHV and OHC designs.

As far as adjustable throttle goes... you can still have it, even on the ones that are pegged at WOT all the time. The throttle linkage is still there, just modified a little (some bent tangs) to keep it from moving. If you look at it closely, you'll see what I mean.

If you need clarification, or would like more elaboration, let me know, and I'll do the best I can.

Andrew



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 Post subject: Re: andrewk
PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 3:12 pm 
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I will check everything out that you explained here in a few days or so. Thanks for the reply! :)


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 Post subject: Re: andrewk
PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 3:14 pm 
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No problem- Hope its an easy fix.



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 Post subject: Re: andrewk
PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 6:48 pm 
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Well thats weird. The part of the dipstick that went into the engine was loose. Repaired that and it runs fine. Never would have thought that. Always wondered why the filter was always slightly oily :lol:


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