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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:01 am 
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Okay, I am building a new trunk interior for my car. I want another sub so I can have either 3 12's either sealed or ported (I have 2 12's ported now).

But then I was wondering if I should get a 15 instead of a 12 to get some deeper bass mixed in there.

What do you ppl recommend? go with 3 12's (sealed / ported)

2 12's and 1 15" (2 12's sealed, 15" ported, all separate chambers)
2 12's and 1 15" all one chamber ported (braced of course)

???

so whats it gonna be guys. also I am thinking about mounting the subs different, like the 15" facing in the box, so u can see magnet, and the 12's facing out (do i just wire them out of phase since there 180 degrees apart?

--- feedback appreciated..

later


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:21 am 
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Well, I've heard this question asked quite a few times on SoundDomain, and it's not a good idea to mix different sized subs. I have heard that this can cause cancellation. The 12 and 15 perform differently, this mixture causes cancellation. The only way to do it is if you set a crossover for the 12s to play maybe 50-80hz, and then set the 15 to play 50-20Hz.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 1:09 pm 
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Thats a sweet idea...

what would be better, 3 12's (TYPE R's)
or 2 12's and 1 (15" TYPE R also, and seprate freq's.)


(so buy another 12, or buy a 15)

and, what about porting it through and into the car, what would that be like, i was thinking of porting into the middle of the back of the seat (in the middle seat) a big (but properly designed port) or a couple even.

I thought of porting through and into the rear deck, but think this would be bad for the rear glass due to the intense SPL. and tornado like winds!
(*talking about porting the box into the car, not porting the rear deck , (thats already done to help vent the trunk*)


I want it to be tight though so I am leaning once again to sealed, (have the ported box now, kinda miss my 4 10's on tightness)

- i was thinkin 2 sealed 12's and 1 ported 15 (so the 12's could be sealed, seprate chambers, and the 15 in a ported chamber between the 2 12's

-any Ideas on the 180 degree mounting, meaning 2 facine out, 1 facing in (just wire out of phase? right)


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 8:58 pm 
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For ease and space saving....plus a wide range of frequency playing, instead of a "tuned" frequency, I would go with the 3 12" in a Sealed Enclosure.

Porting through the car would only make any port noise you have louder (which you wouldn't have if the box is properly designed for the subs)....it's the subwoofers that make the noise, the movement (displacement) of the cone...not the port, unless it's a bandpass (bass reflex) box...which requires perfect calculations in order to get a PROPER bandpass box.

Mounting your subwoofer inverted does require you to switch the negative and positive terminals around, but it is really only for showing off that huge chrome magnet OR it could also be used as part of designing a box...you can make a smaller box than one that is normally mounted because the woofer displaces the volume outside of the box.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2004 4:40 pm 
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Cool thanks Brando, I am going to go with 3 12's in sealed (3 separate chambers)

I want to show off my huge magnets, the Type -Rs are heavy duty.

Image

I think I am going to make a straight box with 3 12's all in a row, thinking about having one in the middle inverted. or the 2 outside ones inverted.

duno..


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 10:34 pm 
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Hi All,

Electronics, as used in sound systems, have changed considerably since I dabbled in the hobby, but I don't think the need for free movement of cones have.
Are the above mentioned sealed enclosures actually air tight, or are they just called sealed?

If they are airtight, what changed?

Regards, Norm



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 11:50 pm 
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Yes, they are air tight, all seams are caulked. Not sure what you mean by what has changed? Sealed enclosures have been around for quite some time....

Here's a little info to read about them...

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 12:52 am 
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Hi Brando, All
Quote:
.............Here's a little info to read about them...
Thanks for the refresher.

Funny how much I've forgotten over the years. :lol:

Regards, Norm



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 11:32 am 
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This box is going to be AIR TIGHT!!

Ive already started the new amp rack and let me tell you its going to look mint. cant wait to show the pics. im not telling anyone or showing anyone till its done, but its going to look pro!

and yes im gettin the 3rd sub.

can you tell me whats best to get another DVC 2ohm (dual 2's) or a DVC 4ohm (dual 4's)

i already have 2 dual 2ohm DVC subs and its wired to 2ohms now, i want to get a similar load on the amp between 1.5 -2.5 (think that would be best with my Clarion DPX 1000.2 (1 ohm stable , digital) amp


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 12:19 pm 
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I would get another dual 2 ohm, just too keep them the same.
Then, you say the amp is 1 ohm stable, so wire each sub up in series to make each sub 4 ohms. Then just connect all three together in parallel to provide a 1.33 ohm configuration...should work out great.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 1:10 pm 
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alright, thanx 4 the idea..

ill consider it, and let you know what i decide, I think that the higher the resistance the less THD (total harmonic distortion) level will be for my amp (but most amps i believe)..
so i might want to try to find a 1.5-2.5 ohm load..)

ill let you know what i figure out, I am open to more good ideas..!

thx.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 3:38 pm 
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Yes, lower resistance equals more distortion, but with subwoofers...you're not gonna be able to tell much of a difference...especially in a car.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 12:46 am 
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Quote:
Yes, lower resistance equals more distortion, but with subwoofers...you're not gonna be able to tell much of a difference...especially in a car.


ok, but how about blowing the subs, i've already blown 2 of these a long time ago, then i changed the freq to 35hz on my EQ (instead of 90, or 110)and down for the subs.

QUESTION: is this true?
Quote:
If you decide to bridge the amp, you have to be even more careful. Bridging, or combining, two channels of an amp will make the amp "see" half the impedance of your sub system. So if you have your 2-ohm-stable, two-channel amp bridged, you can't put anything lower than a 4-ohm sub setup on the bridged single channel.


So if i bridge my 1 ohm stable amp onto say 2 4ohm subs in parallel (2ohm)
then when bridge my amp onto that, it will see half of the (2 ohm) and equal a 1ohm load??

That doesn't sound right to me, this is the first I have heard of this?? :shock:


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 11:14 am 
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Shouldn't have any problems with blowing your subs unless you put your gains all the way and clip the hell out of them.

As for your question, yes, that is true...for 2-CHANNEL amplifiers.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2004 3:13 pm 
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Brando wrote:
Shouldn't have any problems with blowing your subs unless you put your gains all the way and clip the hell out of them.


werd.

People are stupid and put the gain past halfway, generally this is a bad idea.

I guess you could be killing subs by overloading them mechanically such as throwing 3000 watts on a 400 watt sub dont expect it to last to long.



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