I've been up all night trying to turn my trunk into somthing special, i picked up some more of those L.E.D pods that i previously used in my doors. My stock trunk light hasnt worked in awhile, so i figured i would hook these up in place of it. I got them all hooked up, the problem is, the lights no longer turn off when the trunk is shut... does anyone know the location of the mechanism that cuts the power when the lid is shut? im sadly confused by this.

heres some pictures

Did you ever figure it out? You said the old one didn't work? Did you use the stock wiring? I think there may have been a switch inside the stock light fixture that turned on when the lid was opened (mercury switch/tilt sensor).

I'm not entirely positive though....

TOC Admin
Brando

I never really figured this one out, i just wired the lights to the switch on the dash. Somehow on the metal bracket or inside the light socket there must have been somthing to cut the power... im starting to hate the switch though because i keep accidentally hitting it and having to check if the lights on before i leave my car I might just add a master cut off switch if i cant find a different controller that illuminates.

Here's an option:

http://www.caraudio-caralarms.com/8610.html

BTW....you could add a relay and LED to light up when the switched accessory is on.

TOC Admin
Brando

Another option is the magnetic switch...which would actually be more reliable then a mercury switch:

http://www.caraudio-caralarms.com/8600.html


TOC Admin
Brando

All in all, the mercury switch would be easiest to mount and wire up....
The only issue is that if parked on a VERY steep hill, the trunk light could turn on.

TOC Admin
Brando

I drove to "The Place" mall in rhode island last night, about an hour and fifteen minutes of driving and channel 2 kept coming on every 15 minutes or so automatically, but when i turn channel 2 on myself it doesnt ever turn off by itself. i think that fancy paper thin switch is faulty because the wiring is flawless as far as i know.

I found out the faulty switch isnt needed.
i did this by turning the power to a few channels on, disconnecting the switch from the box and unplugging the battery, they stay on without the switch when i plugged the battery back in. so i think i could just do away with the faulty switch and use an illuminated rocker switch instead, when im using one channel of neons, why not the others... screw it, right? Thats how i see it anyway...

I still have to make the door lights come on when the doors open too... and for some reason the button in the passenger side door jam that completes the circuit doesnt work.

I wonder if the l.e.ds in the trunk even draw enough to kill the battery overnight

I have the o.e trunk light still, maybe i could just modify that to turn on the lights for me.

brian, theoretically if you have a good battery, you shouldnt be able to kill your battery in a MONTH from just running some LED's. They draw very minimal amounts of power. Incandescent bulbs are the dead-battery culprits!

thought so, lowrider magazine says they only draw milliamps.. but as much as i want to trust that i dont wanna get stranded somwhere so i got a blue rocker switch next to the steering column now. Had to get rid of that stupid 4 channel crap, what a waist of money...


Brian