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GraveReaper0
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Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 4:04 pm |
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Joined: Thu Sep 09, 2004 11:37 pm Posts: 423 Images: 10 Location: Windy Chicago
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Hey guys, got another dilemma for you to ponder.
I am puting a list together for my new system in my new car and decided to go with a single sub this time. The dual subs in my Ciera are awesome, but I have no room what so ever. I would still like to use my trunk on the Supreme, so I am going to go with only one sub.
So this time, I want to get 1 15" kicker sub and one amp.
The sub is a:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-KICKER-S15L7-D2 ... dZViewItem
Now Kenwood has an 1800 watt mono amp that I like, but what the hell is mono. I know one chanell, but whats that. And its a class D, A and B are suposively better. So what does class D mean?
Or should I just get a dual channell amp??
Here's the Kenwood mono:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KENWOOD- ... dZViewItem
Since Im in the 2000 watt range its going to dim my lights for sure, so I am going to try and stop that with the "3 thing" you guys showed me. But my battery negative doesn't go to the chasis, goes straight to the block, so I only got 2 wires. Would I still need a capacitor if I am getting a yellow top battery?
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Ilovemy98
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Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 4:37 pm |
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Joined: Fri Sep 01, 2006 10:35 pm Posts: 101 Images: 5 Location: Muncie, Indiana
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You asked quite a few questions... I'll see what I can do to help!
When choosing your amp, you need to look at its intended application. If you are planning to use the sub you have posted, you need to be sure that the amplifier is 1 ohm stable to get the most out of the sub, because your sub has two 2 ohm voice coils. The amplifier you have chosen fits that bill, and is rated at 900 watts RMS at 1 ohm. Your sub is rated for 1000 watts RMS, which puts them both in a similar range. However, from what I've read and learned over time is that it's better to have an amplifier that puts out more power than the sub can actually handle... and then turn down the amp, rather than having the amp cranked up all the way. This reduces the strain on the amp and reduces the likelyhood of "clipping," which is the quickest way to destroy a speaker. Sure, you can use an amp that has a lower power rating than a sub, but if you want to get the absolute most sound possible out of the sub, you need an amp that can keep up. Class "D" amplifiers tend to be more efficient than the more traditional class AB amplifiers, and tend to have a cleaner sound. The big thing to keep in mind is that you don't want to make your amp work harder than it should, or you will end up replacing components far more often than necessary.
I am in a similar situation and use my trunk all the time, so I have a single Fusion 12" DVC sub in a small sealed box powered by an Infinity 611 mono amplifier. While it's not the most amazing sub in the world, the setup adds a pretty clean bottom end to the rest of the system.
Feel free to take or leave my advice, but I've found that planning ahead and getting more amp than is absolutely necessary gives better results than having one that barely meets the requirements.
As far as the big three, I would ADD a third wire that goes from the negative on the battery to the body of the car, because that is where you will ground your system. Do that, AND upgrade the other two wires and you should have pretty solid results. As far as the capacitor goes, I'd see what happens without the cap and then decide whether or not to add one. I have a cap in my setup, but that's only because I got a ridiculously good deal on it. I so far have done two of the big three (battery to body and battery to alternator) and intend to run the third as soon as I get the time. I never see any dimming from my system, which has the aforementioned 611 (running at about 650 watts RMS) and an Infinity 4-channel that theoretically puts out around 100 watts RMS per channel. I have neither of them turned up very far, so I imagine they draw quite a bit less than your planned system.
Okay, enough of my long-winded response... GOOD LUCK!! Let us know how it goes!
-Carl
P.S. If you see anything incorrect in here, please let me know... I would hate to lead someone astray!
_________________ I miss the 98... but I'm loving the Regal!
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Ilovemy98
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Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 5:00 pm |
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Joined: Fri Sep 01, 2006 10:35 pm Posts: 101 Images: 5 Location: Muncie, Indiana
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Yes, it's definitely possible to fry a sub by giving it TOO much power, but from what I've seen and heard, you are much more likely to fry it by underpowering it. You can always turn down an amplifier so that you do not pump so much wattage through your speakers, but trying to push an amplifier past its limits is where the problems really show up. When an amplifier clips, it dumps current straight to the speakers that are hooked up, and damage can happen in seconds. Tweeters seem to be more prone to being destroyed when this happens, but it can happen to any speaker. Any time you hear distortion, you are potentially damaging your equipment.
If you are looking for ridiculous bass, I think you are looking at the right type of setup. If clarity is more of a priority, I'd consider a smaller sub (12" or smaller) with a high sensitivity rating. I'm not sure, but I think to get the most pounding out of the Kickers, you'll want to put them in a ported box of some sort. Beyond that, I'm afraid I'm not much help, I've usually stuck to sealed boxes because they tend to be smaller and deliver a tighter bass. I had a pair of MTX 7500s in a Sledgehammer box (slot ports on each side) and they were ridiculously loud, but they didn't give the tight bass I was looking for. Once again, good luck!
-Carl
P.S. Again, please correct me if I'm wrong!
_________________ I miss the 98... but I'm loving the Regal!
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andrewk
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Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 6:11 pm |
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Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 5:42 pm Posts: 1297 Images: 2 Location: Ames, IA
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Quote: But my battery negative doesn't go to the chasis, goes straight to the block, so I only got 2 wires.
You may want to double check that there isnt a wire going from the block to the chassis. A ground only to the engine wouldnt be very good, IMO. I cant tell you exactly where to look, but crawl underneath and check it out. I'd bet there is a wire there.
Andrew
_________________ Andrew
TOC Moderator
Mark Twain wrote: A man's character may be learned from the adjectives which he habitually uses in conversation.
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Ilovemy98
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Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 9:47 pm |
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Joined: Fri Sep 01, 2006 10:35 pm Posts: 101 Images: 5 Location: Muncie, Indiana
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Good point Andrew, now that I think about it, it seems pretty much impossible that there is no ground wire to the chassis. It seems as though his car may not have a direct ground cable from the battery to the chassis, which I guess is a possibility.
GraveReaper, I would definitely add a ground cable that goes directly from the battery to the body of the car, as well as upgrade the ground cable to the engine block. These ground cables are at least as important as the power cable you will also want to upgrade. Your new Optima battery will make your life much easier, because you can use all four terminals to do this. I used the side terminals to hook up the factory wires and the top terminals on my Optima Red Top for my additional ground and power cables. These upgrades should help with more than just your stereo, all the lights seem to be brighter and more stable since I upgraded my wiring, and I haven't even finished the process. Let us know how it all goes and what you find!
-Carl
_________________ I miss the 98... but I'm loving the Regal!
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87Delta
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Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 10:08 pm |
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Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 5:50 pm Posts: 690 Images: 6 Location: Mississippi
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GraveReaper0 wrote: Ok, since my battery is going straight to the block, should I disconnect that and wire it up somewhere on the body, or still keep it on the block and add another one to the body.
And if I get a bigger amp then I need, how do I "turn down" the amp??
Keep one to the block and one to the chassis. Do around 2AWG for it.
To answer the question of "turning down" your amp, it all depends on your head units pre-out voltage. You use the gain setting to adjust how loud you want it.
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Ilovemy98
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Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 10:15 pm |
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Joined: Fri Sep 01, 2006 10:35 pm Posts: 101 Images: 5 Location: Muncie, Indiana
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87Delta, that's what I meant when I said that he should also upgrade his power wire while he was at it, but I may not have been clear enough. I can't agree with you more... having solid ground and power wires will make your car much happier, as well as improve your sound system performance.
GraveReaper, this is my little sub... http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/products. ... duct_id=30
it sounds pretty solid in my 98, but I've also Dynamatted the trunklid with leftover Dynamat Extreme from a friend's installation. It made a HUGE difference in the quality of the sound, as well as the quantity. It also does a good job of keeping the sound inside the car instead of making everyone within blocks hear your bass. That, and my trunk no longer rattles! All I have to do now is stop the license plate stop buzzing and I'll be all set!
When you are deciding on your sub, look for a high sensitivity rating, a frequency range that goes as low as possible (25 hz or lower to have a big impact), and one that is designed for a box that you can make room for in your trunk. Happy Hunting! Oh yeah, then you just have to find an amp to go with it...
-Carl
_________________ I miss the 98... but I'm loving the Regal!
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Ilovemy98
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Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 10:30 pm |
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Joined: Fri Sep 01, 2006 10:35 pm Posts: 101 Images: 5 Location: Muncie, Indiana
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Quote: Keep one to the block and one to the chassis. Do around 2AWG for it.
GraveReaper, 87Delta is saying to use 2 gauge wire, and to use it for BOTH connections... from the battery to the chassis as well as from the battery to the block... for the best possible result.... and he's absolutely right... go for it GraveReaper!
-Carl
_________________ I miss the 98... but I'm loving the Regal!
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88 Coupe
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Posted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 7:12 am |
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Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 3:25 am Posts: 3196 Images: 10 Location: Southern California
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Hello everyone,
Ilovemy98: Good posts.
GraveReaper0 wrote: ........ Since Im in the 2000 watt range its going to dim my lights for sure ........ Anyone: How much battery draw would that be, in amperes? Ilovemy98 wrote: ........ Again, please correct me if I'm wrong ........ Isn't that expected, when one posts on a discussion board? Ilovemy98 wrote: ........ it's definitely possible to fry a sub by giving it too much power, but from what I've seen and heard, you are much more likely to fry it by underpowering it ......... Looks like your keyboard might have a problem. I corrected your typo. Is it possible to fry a transducer by underpowering it? Overpowering it, will cause instant damage. andrewk wrote: You may want to double check that there isn't a wire going from the block to the chassis ........ 87Delta wrote: ........ Keep one to the block and one to the chassis. Do around 2AWG for it. Keeping it simple: There should not be. The factory ran a ground strap from the block to the firewall. One could add a second, or increase its size, if it was actually found to be too small for the added load. Unless the alternator wire size needs to be increased, nothing else should be needed. The actual install, will be a different story. 87Delta wrote: ........ It's all explained on the link I posted ........ Other than a basic "how to do it" there isn't much there. 87Delta wrote: ........ an alternator power wire of about 10AWG ........ Is that what they used in the '88 G body? 87Delta wrote: ........ bigger then 2AWG can be used if you are really pulling some power .........
From the alternator to the battery?
Norm
_________________ Harry S. Truman wrote: When you have an efficient government, you have a dictatorship.
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Brando
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Posted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 7:21 am |
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Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2003 3:58 pm Posts: 3166 Images: 29 Location: Michigan, USA
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88 Coupe wrote: GraveReaper0 wrote: ........ Since Im in the 2000 watt range its going to dim my lights for sure ........ Anyone: How much battery draw would that be, in amperes? P=IV 2000W/13.8V=145A Whether or not the amp will actually do the rated rating is the question, RMS power, not PEAK. Another thing to look at is the fuses on the amp, if it has them. 88 Coupe wrote: Ilovemy98 wrote: ........ it's definitely possible to fry a sub by giving it too much power, but from what I've seen and heard, you are much more likely to fry it by underpowering it ......... Looks like your keyboard might have a problem. I corrected your typo. Is it possible to fry a transducer by underpowering it? Overpowering it, will cause instant damage.
You can't destroy a sub simply by underpowering it, it's the USER that destroys the sub. It's not loud enough so they turn the gains up and the stereo volume all the way until THD is 99.9% and smoking comes pouring out, surprise...you burnt the voice coil/s out by clipping it.
TOC Admin
Brando
Last edited by Brando on Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
_________________ 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue GLS 1987 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale
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