Hey guys, got another dilemma for you to ponder.
I am puting a list together for my new system in my new car and decided to go with a single sub this time. The dual subs in my Ciera are awesome, but I have no room what so ever. I would still like to use my trunk on the Supreme, so I am going to go with only one sub.
So this time, I want to get 1 15" kicker sub and one amp.
The sub is a:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-KICKER-S15L7-D2 ... dZViewItem

Now Kenwood has an 1800 watt mono amp that I like, but what the hell is mono. I know one chanell, but whats that. And its a class D, A and B are suposively better. So what does class D mean?

Or should I just get a dual channell amp??

Here's the Kenwood mono:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KENWOOD- ... dZViewItem

Since Im in the 2000 watt range its going to dim my lights for sure, so I am going to try and stop that with the "3 thing" you guys showed me. But my battery negative doesn't go to the chasis, goes straight to the block, so I only got 2 wires. Would I still need a capacitor if I am getting a yellow top battery?

You asked quite a few questions... I'll see what I can do to help!

When choosing your amp, you need to look at its intended application. If you are planning to use the sub you have posted, you need to be sure that the amplifier is 1 ohm stable to get the most out of the sub, because your sub has two 2 ohm voice coils. The amplifier you have chosen fits that bill, and is rated at 900 watts RMS at 1 ohm. Your sub is rated for 1000 watts RMS, which puts them both in a similar range. However, from what I've read and learned over time is that it's better to have an amplifier that puts out more power than the sub can actually handle... and then turn down the amp, rather than having the amp cranked up all the way. This reduces the strain on the amp and reduces the likelyhood of "clipping," which is the quickest way to destroy a speaker. Sure, you can use an amp that has a lower power rating than a sub, but if you want to get the absolute most sound possible out of the sub, you need an amp that can keep up. Class "D" amplifiers tend to be more efficient than the more traditional class AB amplifiers, and tend to have a cleaner sound. The big thing to keep in mind is that you don't want to make your amp work harder than it should, or you will end up replacing components far more often than necessary.
I am in a similar situation and use my trunk all the time, so I have a single Fusion 12" DVC sub in a small sealed box powered by an Infinity 611 mono amplifier. While it's not the most amazing sub in the world, the setup adds a pretty clean bottom end to the rest of the system.

Feel free to take or leave my advice, but I've found that planning ahead and getting more amp than is absolutely necessary gives better results than having one that barely meets the requirements.

As far as the big three, I would ADD a third wire that goes from the negative on the battery to the body of the car, because that is where you will ground your system. Do that, AND upgrade the other two wires and you should have pretty solid results. As far as the capacitor goes, I'd see what happens without the cap and then decide whether or not to add one. I have a cap in my setup, but that's only because I got a ridiculously good deal on it. I so far have done two of the big three (battery to body and battery to alternator) and intend to run the third as soon as I get the time. I never see any dimming from my system, which has the aforementioned 611 (running at about 650 watts RMS) and an Infinity 4-channel that theoretically puts out around 100 watts RMS per channel. I have neither of them turned up very far, so I imagine they draw quite a bit less than your planned system.

Okay, enough of my long-winded response... GOOD LUCK!! Let us know how it goes!

-Carl

P.S. If you see anything incorrect in here, please let me know... I would hate to lead someone astray!

Reply already, and a good one at that, thanks!

But there's one thing I do not understand. If you hook up a 2000 watt amp to a 1000 watt sub, wouldn't that fry the sub since its getting more power then it can handle??

Yes, it's definitely possible to fry a sub by giving it TOO much power, but from what I've seen and heard, you are much more likely to fry it by underpowering it. You can always turn down an amplifier so that you do not pump so much wattage through your speakers, but trying to push an amplifier past its limits is where the problems really show up. When an amplifier clips, it dumps current straight to the speakers that are hooked up, and damage can happen in seconds. Tweeters seem to be more prone to being destroyed when this happens, but it can happen to any speaker. Any time you hear distortion, you are potentially damaging your equipment.
If you are looking for ridiculous bass, I think you are looking at the right type of setup. If clarity is more of a priority, I'd consider a smaller sub (12" or smaller) with a high sensitivity rating. I'm not sure, but I think to get the most pounding out of the Kickers, you'll want to put them in a ported box of some sort. Beyond that, I'm afraid I'm not much help, I've usually stuck to sealed boxes because they tend to be smaller and deliver a tighter bass. I had a pair of MTX 7500s in a Sledgehammer box (slot ports on each side) and they were ridiculously loud, but they didn't give the tight bass I was looking for. Once again, good luck!

-Carl

P.S. Again, please correct me if I'm wrong!

Sorry, I'm bored at work.... I really do have a life, I promise! Anyway, check out Crutchfield's website for some fairly helpful basic information on amplifiers and such...

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/ISEO- ... ssary.html

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/ISEO- ... s_faq.html

Not all of it is helpful, and some of it is aimed at getting you to buy more equipment, but there is some useful information that can be pulled from those two links.

You may want to double check that there isnt a wire going from the block to the chassis. A ground only to the engine wouldnt be very good, IMO. I cant tell you exactly where to look, but crawl underneath and check it out. I'd bet there is a wire there.

Andrew

Good point Andrew, now that I think about it, it seems pretty much impossible that there is no ground wire to the chassis. It seems as though his car may not have a direct ground cable from the battery to the chassis, which I guess is a possibility.

GraveReaper, I would definitely add a ground cable that goes directly from the battery to the body of the car, as well as upgrade the ground cable to the engine block. These ground cables are at least as important as the power cable you will also want to upgrade. Your new Optima battery will make your life much easier, because you can use all four terminals to do this. I used the side terminals to hook up the factory wires and the top terminals on my Optima Red Top for my additional ground and power cables. These upgrades should help with more than just your stereo, all the lights seem to be brighter and more stable since I upgraded my wiring, and I haven't even finished the process. Let us know how it all goes and what you find!

-Carl

While he is at it adding bigger negative wires, might as well do the big 3. Improves not only stereo performance, but all other electrical.

Big 3 thread:
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152355

Ok, since my battery is going straight to the block, should I disconnect that and wire it up somewhere on the body, or still keep it on the block and add another one to the body.
they got some beefy mono amps on ebay, lookin at one thats 3000 watts for 130 buks?? Aint that a little cheap? I paid 100 each for my 1000 watt amps that I have now.
And if I get a bigger amp then I need, how do I "turn down" the amp??

Keep one to the block and one to the chassis. Do around 2AWG for it.

To answer the question of "turning down" your amp, it all depends on your head units pre-out voltage. You use the gain setting to adjust how loud you want it.

87Delta, that's what I meant when I said that he should also upgrade his power wire while he was at it, but I may not have been clear enough. I can't agree with you more... having solid ground and power wires will make your car much happier, as well as improve your sound system performance.

GraveReaper, this is my little sub... http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/products. ... duct_id=30
it sounds pretty solid in my 98, but I've also Dynamatted the trunklid with leftover Dynamat Extreme from a friend's installation. It made a HUGE difference in the quality of the sound, as well as the quantity. It also does a good job of keeping the sound inside the car instead of making everyone within blocks hear your bass. That, and my trunk no longer rattles! All I have to do now is stop the license plate stop buzzing and I'll be all set!

When you are deciding on your sub, look for a high sensitivity rating, a frequency range that goes as low as possible (25 hz or lower to have a big impact), and one that is designed for a box that you can make room for in your trunk. Happy Hunting! Oh yeah, then you just have to find an amp to go with it...

-Carl

GraveReaper, 87Delta is saying to use 2 gauge wire, and to use it for BOTH connections... from the battery to the chassis as well as from the battery to the block... for the best possible result.... and he's absolutely right... go for it GraveReaper!

-Carl

Also, don't forget the alternator to battery wire. It's all explained on the link I posted about the big 3. Can't flow all that energy with an alternator power wire of about 10AWG Also, bigger then 2AWG can be used if you are really pulling some power.

Hello everyone,

Ilovemy98: Good posts.


Anyone: How much battery draw would that be, in amperes?


Isn't that expected, when one posts on a discussion board?


Looks like your keyboard might have a problem. I corrected your typo.

Is it possible to fry a transducer by underpowering it? Overpowering it, will cause instant damage.


Keeping it simple: There should not be. The factory ran a ground strap from the block to the firewall. One could add a second, or increase its size, if it was actually found to be too small for the added load.

Unless the alternator wire size needs to be increased, nothing else should be needed. The actual install, will be a different story.


Other than a basic "how to do it" there isn't much there.


Is that what they used in the '88 G body?


From the alternator to the battery?

Norm

P=IV
2000W/13.8V=145A

Whether or not the amp will actually do the rated rating is the question, RMS power, not PEAK. Another thing to look at is the fuses on the amp, if it has them.



You can't destroy a sub simply by underpowering it, it's the USER that destroys the sub. It's not loud enough so they turn the gains up and the stereo volume all the way until THD is 99.9% and smoking comes pouring out, surprise...you burnt the voice coil/s out by clipping it.

TOC Admin
Brando