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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 11:51 pm 
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k youll need a flathead screw driver and a phillips,


It may be beneficial, to use the proper tool for the job. A screwdriver might work ok, but the proper tool will decrease the chance of damaging the door panel, and it will make the process easier.

You can find this tool at most big chain auto parts stores, but here is a picture of what one looks like.

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I own this one, but then again, I turn wrenches for a living. A similar tool is available at the parts store for half this price, if not less.

If there are clips that are in the center of the panel, something like this might work better. Again it can be found for less than the "name brand"

The proper tool for the job is always a wise investment.



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 11:54 pm 
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FYI: Even the factory power antena's have straps as seen here. so there is no need to make any mounts or anything of that nature


I believe the point is that the way the universal mounts is not the same as the factory, and hence you would need to come up with a way to mount it, since it is a different part than the OEM makes.



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 11:55 pm 
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The flat head is not for the door panel its for prying the sections stated up, because a door panel remover tool will not fit in these areas without damaging the panel itself.

Edit: BTW The antenna mounts the same way the factory does that was the reason i uploaded the picture. I know this because i have replaced them on my firends Le sabre.


Last edited by 91parkave on Thu Sep 06, 2007 11:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 11:58 pm 
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91parkave wrote:
So how many products are actually made in the us? FYI GM cars are nade in mexico with a disturbing amount of parts that were....made in china!


Made in china to GM specs. Looks like the universal is a crap-shoot to me. It is not where the part is made, it is to what specifications, and hence quality it is made. An after market replacement made in the US will probably be half again, if not twice what a cheap Chinese replacement is. Since we are dealing in the after market with the universal antenna, you are gambling on whether or not that universal fit antenna is a piece of shit or not.

If it were mine, I would go buy a new GM replacement from the dealer. Rarely does saving money ever save you money.



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:03 am 
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91parkave wrote:
The flat head is not for the door panel its for prying the sections stated up, because a door panel remover tool will not fit in these areas without damaging the panel itself.

Edit: BTW The antenna mounts the same way the factory does that was the reason i uploaded the picture. I know this because i have replaced them on my firends Le sabre.


Sorry for the multiple replies, my connection has been iffy, and I didn't want to lose them-

The way I read it, he is to pull the entire door panel. The proper way to pull the panel is by using the tool listed to pry the clips from their holes. Am I missing something? How can a screwdriver work better than what the FSM says to use?

Does that after market antenna use the factory mount, or do you have to use that steel banding supplied?



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:04 am 
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Made in china to u.s specs?
andrew come on man havent you been watching the news?
China makes the shit and ship it out, quality control is slim to none, especially when a company outsources (except japan) so lets be real would you spend 125 bucks on a "GM" antenna when the probability of the same antenna is all over EBAY? just my .02



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:09 am 
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91buickman wrote:
........ Even the factory power antena's have straps as seen here ........

Image

Does not look factory to me.

It does look like a hack job. Not as bad as the nylon "come along"

Image

that holds your radiator in place, but a hack, nonetheless.

Norm


Last edited by 88 Coupe on Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:13 am, edited 1 time in total.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:10 am 
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andrewk wrote:

The way I read it, he is to pull the entire door panel. The proper way to pull the panel is by using the tool listed to pry the clips from their holes. Am I missing something? How can a screwdriver work better than what the FSM says to use?


yes use the tool to pry the door panel off but use the screwdriver to pry the individual parts mentioned.

andrewk wrote:
Does that after market antenna use the factory mount, or do you have to use that steel banding supplied?


The steel banding is from the factory all you do is remove it, and screw the new one in and connect the proper wires



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:17 am 
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91parkave wrote:
Made in china to u.s specs?
andrew come on man havent you been watching the news?

Sure have, but that doesn't have anything to do with it. If the product is not up to snuff, the company will not use it.



Quote:
China makes the shit and ship it out, quality control is slim to none, especially when a company outsources (except japan) so lets be real would you spend 125 bucks on a "GM" antenna when the probability of the same antenna is all over EBAY? just my .02


Some companies that use china as a supplier have no problems with QC. While I don't argue there is a lot of crap out there, the part has to be made to at least last through the warranty period, or the retailer will not accept it.

Andrew



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:18 am 
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Norm wrote:
It does look like a hack job. Not as bad as the nylon "come along"


Whoa- Where did these pics come from, and is there a story behind them? That looks like an accident waiting to happen!



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:27 am 
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certified dumbass wrote:
Does not look factory to me.


i assume your on bonneville club looking for pictures of power antena's?........ tell willren i said hey while youre over there digging up pictures, as for your drier duct ask him what he thinks about it.

certified dumbass wrote:
It does look like a hack job. Not as bad as the nylon "come along"
that holds your radiator in place, but a hack, nonetheless.

that dosent hold my radiator in place, it was a temporary mod i used to hold the engine up when i replaced my trans mount. BTW your hypocracy is overwhelming, look into getting that taken care of.


Last edited by 91parkave on Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:31 am, edited 1 time in total.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:30 am 
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91parkave wrote:
got it, ok youll need a flathead screw driver and a phillips,
First you need to pry the back of the window switch so it comes up, disconnect it from the wiring harness (it will take a lot of finesse and patience so just take your time) proceed by looking for IIRC 2 screws, take them loose, proceed to the the edge of the door panel you will see the courtesy light carefully pry it out from the top side and disconnect the light bulb from the harness, then there will be one screw there, now just pull from the top of door panel to remove it completley and disconnect any other wiring that holds it to the harness. Dont worry if you break the push clips that hold the door panel on autozone sell new ones for 2.99. Take the plastic sheathing off, and proceed with trouble shooting, BTW you can reconnect your window/unlock switch now as well. Hope this helps, as this all from memory.

Edit: i dont know about the 80's it should work, they have the same moldings on top so they should but im not 100% on that


Ok, few questions. Seeing as this is an LS it has a power seat on the passenger side too; do I need to remove the plastic cover that goes around the control for that? Does it just pry out?

To get the window switch thing out, do I pry from the front or the rear of it? I'm guessing I go at it from the front?

One final thing, these clips that I may or may not break, are there any pictures of them around? Even a link to them on autozone would help. I'd like to see them.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:39 am 
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OldsBuickGuy82 wrote:


Ok, few questions. Seeing as this is an LS it has a power seat on the passenger side too; do I need to remove the plastic cover that goes around the control for that? Does it just pry out?

To get the window switch thing out, do I pry from the front or the rear of it? I'm guessing I go at it from the front?

One final thing, these clips that I may or may not break, are there any pictures of them around? Even a link to them on autozone would help. I'd like to see them.


Yes remove the cover just in case as our door panels vary slightly i doubt there is a screw behind it but its always a good idea. As for the switch you pry from the rear of the switch.
here is a link to the door clips--
http://www.ldctx.com/supplies/trimsuppl ... ?offset=15

as for the autozone thing there in the help section where all the screw are, on the revolving displays, cant miss them



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:46 am 
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Ok, those little clips look sorta like the ones that keep that grey trunk carpet in place to me. If they are like those they seem to have a bit of give, so they might not break for sure.

I'm pretty sure this issue with my lock is only due to that damn silly Autolock garbage. Lock @ D and Unlock @ P. How many times do those poor little motors kick in for no reason. I wish there was a way to disable that. I'm guessing there isn't?

Oh, and with all the talking about antennas going on I should mention that I'm not going to try universal kits or that sorta thing. If I can't get a good one from a GM car I'll just leave it.


Last edited by OldsBuickGuy82 on Fri Sep 07, 2007 1:06 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:48 am 
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91buickman wrote:
........ The steel banding is from the factory ........

Factory mount looks nothing like your plumbers tape.

Norm



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