Hi 92olds88royalle, all,

Just read your entire post for the first time. When I first saw it, it looked hard to read and the subject didn't appear to be in any of my stronger areas. In retrospect, I should have broken it down and read it anyway. My reply would have been similar to this one.


First and foremost: Codes tell you where to look, not what to replace.

Eliminating loose electrical connections (power and ground) and vacuum leaks are preferable to replacing a working part.

Ever wonder how many faulty connections have been unknowingly fixed by simply replacing a good part with another good one?


This is where I stopped reading. Coolant is in the cooling system, refrigerant is in the AC system.


Cleanliness is next to Godliness.


A good indication that you created a new problem instead of fixing the existing one. Good guess is, you put it back on incorrectly.
Now we are talking about two problems.


This is where you started digging a hole for yourself. You didn't know if it was bad, if you installed it (and its replacement) correctly, or if the new part was DOA.


Compounding the original and/or those you created. You don’t know if it was bad, but it’s a good bet you didn’t install this one correctly either.

Now there are, at least, three separate problems.


More practical to put all the used parts back in and take it to a shop.


How many actually needed replacement?

Doubtless, a shop would have charged considerably less to correct the original trouble in the first place.


It could be, but you cannot know without proper testing. Or you could just replace them both.

Since the person didn't tell you which, he/she doesn't know much more than you do.



With credit to "texasred". You are in a hole, first priority is to stop digging.

My advice is to cut your losses, take it to a shop like you should have in the first place, and consider the experience an education.

Regards, Norm

well ill tell you what when all the shops neer you charge you 300$ to scan your car then tell you something is wrong replace it and still have the problem with all of the 4 shops in the area and also almost get charged 110$ for a belt just to pass inspection when the belt was replaced 3 days before that and it was not bad you would be doing the work on it yourself too. Now i know for a fact all my fuses and all my wires are fine i checked every single part of my car that i could test with the ohm meter and their all getting the right amount of power i do tend to turn to part failure now my ac is fine and has been for quite sometime so that was a false code. Also my tps tested fine and is installed correctly, and lastly how the hell could you screw up on installing a coolant temp sensor underneeth the throttle body when it just screws in and plugs in?

thanks for your help im never using this forum again

Hi all,

Well, that puts a whole new light on the perspective of the situation.


Your local autozone will do it free.


Should have been no charge unless it was correctly repaired. Any unnecessary parts and/or labor are on their Dime.

Did you do any "repairs" before you took it into the first shop?


The correct AC belt is required to pass the emissions test.


I've always done all my own work. It accounts for much of my experience.


When used correctly, a multimeter is a valuable tool.


False code? Interesting concept. Did it occur before or after the compressor was changed? When did you discover it was false?


Easier than you think. Ask any tech how often he corrects such simple f**k*ps made during home repairs.


You're welcome.

If you are still here, tell us everything you know about the initial problem before you began to fix it.

If you have already gone, please continue.


Buh Bye.

Regards, Norm

im still here just pissed off because i cant figure out this problem and no one is really helping im just getting critized. i got a code 66 way after i did the a/c compressor i installed it and had it refilled and leakdown tested by a mechanic. That was all fine after i got the code 66 i had the car tested and it was fine still had the proper ammount of r12 and it was just weird the ac still worked fine so i just didnt even bother messing around with it. Then my coil packs went about a month after that the car was shuddering bad and didnt want to accelerate. Replaced it and the car was fine again. about 3 weeks later it started stalling when it came to a stop when cold. After i changed the coil packs the only that i had dont was the oil change which i had the shop flush the coolant and change the oil when i got my tires changed. Now about a week after the oil changed it started acting up. that leads up to me changing the power steering pump and that wasnt it. then cleaning the throttle body out replacing the coolant temp sensor and the codes 15 and 22 coming up. Now the car is still stalling and i have the code 15 and 22 now just last week my car was shuddering again like when the coil packs went bad. Now thinking it could be related i changed the coil packs/ ignition control module again. and the car ran fine again except for the codes that keep coming back and the stalling still. Now i believe the computer is probaly shot if anyone else knows what else it could be and what to check let me know i will see what i can find this afternoon. oh and also the fans dont shut off infront of the engine.

Hi all,


Well, here's some more criticism:
If you want any help, you need to adjust your attitude. You need to grow up, get control of yourself, admit your mistakes, and stop making excuses.

After you've done that, please reread my last two posts as if you were a mature adult. Troubleshooting even simple ailments through this medium is difficult at best and by imitating "a bull in a china shop" you've probably made it impossible.

You've been telling us what happened after you started fixing it. Not a bit of help.


I did not take the trouble to type this just for you to ignore.

Regards, Norm

92olds88 - You just want a place to come and bash out your frustrations for your mistakes. Placing a post on a message board means you want our input on your problem.

You have sensor problems after removing the intake - WIRE CONNECTIONS. You replaced the sensors, and still get the codes - WIRE CONNECTIONS. You havent gotten your ALDL idle / WOT integer values out of the COMPUTER yet, you are using your MULTIMETER still. You havent listened to a word I've said, but instead, discount it all because it doesnt apply, right?


You tell me, 92olds88, all a temp sensor is is a circuit that must complete...

You came looking for a free fix. We'd all love to help you resolve your problem, but you dont listen, or co-operate.

I'm done.

Hi 88delta88, all

Thanks for giving me a better perspective. If he didn't show an understanding of where he is and how he got there by now, I planned on giving up.


Thought of that and opted to try and help him anyway.


After reading your last, I am too.

Regards, Norm

by the way i never tried an aldl reader where can i get one?

im sorry i never even noticed before you told me to get one of those and scan it. i re read the whole post and everything is starting to come together and i realised that it has to be in the wiring with the 2 codes the one thing i do not understand is what caused the jerking and stalling to begin with. i do know that when i put that coolant temp sensor back in the wiring was tight and i had to pull on it a little to plug in becase it was tight ( wires were like short). so maybe one of the wires broke. i will check that tomarow . now before this all started over the summer the car was hesitating and didnt want to accelerate it felt like it was getting burts of fuel. turned out to be the coil packs but the garage told me that it was the maf so i ended up changing that too. then after a while i decided to check my plugs ended up braking some of the wires because they were in there good changed plugs and wires and after that the car started doing the stalling when cold.

now i know i havent said all this before but hopefully someone can help me now from the information i gave.

Also my dad told me he used cheepie wires when we replaced them and after we replaced them about a week after it started doing the stalling. Unfortionatly the autoparts store around here has sold out to another store and switched most of them around and the ones that have switches have gone to shit and has been selling universal wires and cheap parts.

Hi 92olds88royalle,



try cleaning the contacts to the sensor while your at it. Chances are, its also dirty.


Your car is equipped with an electric fan, check the relay, if thats not it, your thermostat could be stuck open.

I suppose its better to be stuck open then stuck closed, aye?
does it stay on after the car is turned off?


Theres no Napa on your planet?


The cars running under several different error codes, the imformation your sensors are sending to the computer isnt credible. Im not the mechanic around here, but sounds to me like you just need a good tune up.

I'll check back to see norms conclusion.

Brian

Hi 92olds88royalle,



try cleaning the contacts to the sensor while your at it. Chances are, its also dirty.


Your car is equipped with an electric fan, check the relay, if thats not it, your thermostat could be stuck open.

I suppose its better to be stuck open then stuck closed, aye?
does it stay on after the car is turned off?


Theres no Napa on your planet?


The cars running under several different error codes, the imformation your sensors are sending to the computer isnt credible. Im not the mechanic around here, but sounds to me like you just need a good tune up.

I'll check back to see norms conclusion.

Brian

nope we have a bridge which used to be a auto parts store of america and we have a carquest. i dont think we have a napa around we have an autozone about 35 minutes away im going to try to give it a tuneup and see what happens

hey guys i went out and got some new plugs and wires ac delco plugs and some bosch wires (the ones i had on there before i checked the plugs a few months ago and they broke) they lasted me about 2 years last time and they were fine when i pulled them back off. but my father baught cheepie wires last time and im hoping that was the problem but i wont know until tomarow when i throw them on. but the wires come with a lifetime warrenty from autozone. What else should i do tomarow after i install the plugs and wires?

pray that it was the problem?

Make sure they are all gapped properly...of course, and just take your time doing it.

It's very possible that the cheapo spark plug wires were the cause for the rough/stalling engine.

TOC Admin
Brando