Alright guys, got back from AutoZone. I've got 4 codes popping up.

Code numbers 12, 32, 41, 42

TROUBLECODE 012
Trouble code "12" means that there is no tachometer signal ( distributor reference pulses) to the ECM. While the engine will usually run without reference signal to the ECM, a code "12" will result in the ECM being unable to control ignition timing.
It should be noted that troublecode "12" is only a valid troublecode if it is found while checking for stored codes with the engine running. ("12" is normal and expected when checking for troubleodes while the ignition is in the in position).
Trouble code "41" will likely also show along with code "12" if the reference wire from the distributor is either open or shorted.

But we did the check with the engine off. Should I do the diagnostic again with the engine running? And does "41" mean I got an unhooked cable somewhere? This may be why my tachometer ain't working?

TROUBLECODE 032
Troublecode "32" means that the ECM has detected an open circuit problem with the barometric pressure sensor or related wiring/connectors.

So that's just a bad sensor or something unplugged again?


TROUBLECODE 042
Troublecode "42" means that the ECM has detected a grounded or open Electronic Spark Timing bypass circuit. The EST circuit should only be grounded (no volage from the ECM) during cranking when engine RPM is under 600. Troublecode "42" will show if this circuit is grounded or open at other times.

Here's some more pictures.







These were all taken after I got back from my girlfriends house, so its warmed up.

Now we know the comp is hooked up, so we have another piece of the puzzle.


Not needed yet. We can do it when we are actually looking for codes.


Maybe, maybe not.


Maybe, maybe not.


And we can see that the choke works. Were the earlier pics taken when it was cold, or partially warm?

Norm

The first was partially warm, a short 8 block drive.



coincidence?

If it is closed when it is cold, there is probably nothing wrong with it.


Maybe, maybe not.

Norm

so whats the next step?

Sorry, I thought I posted this.



Take the nut and bolt out. Then see if the linkage, and door, work work freely.

Next:



Shows the part you will remove. Small circle shows the screw you that holds it. Probably a small torx screw



Metering rods, hanging on the hanger, after removal.



What is left.

Caution: Do not drop small parts into the carb.

Carefully remove the screw, lift the assembly straight up. When its out, post a pic of it.

Norm

When the bolt is loose the flaps move freely no problem.



And the tube that hooks up to this:


The other end came out, I can stick it back in the hole, but should it come out like that?



And what is this plug for?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47/G ... CN0090.jpg

Separate them, and post (at least 2 views each) pics of each of the bottom ends of the rods and of the rod end of the hanger. We will be looking at any area that might be bent, or otherwise damaged.

After you have the pics, put the assembly back in the carb.


That is a good sign.

The bolt (and nut) were added by the PO (or his brother), and would be the cause of the "carburetor secondaries" mentioned in your manual. Throw them into the nearest Dumpster, and forget they ever existed.



With the engine speed at idle, note the difference in position of anything in the marked areas?

If no difference, see if there is a vacuum hose connected to the pot at the bottom right. If there is, check for vacuum at the hose.

Report back.


Replace the hose, put it back, then show us a pic of the other end.


It is another piece of the puzzle. We will deal with it, when we get to it? If you are looking for something to do, you can look for its female counterpart. Do not plug it in. Post a pic of it.

FWIW: Comparing our progress to an in person diagnosis, we are less than five minutes into it.

Norm

The first pic in your post, the photobucket one, seems to be screwing up the other one...if you change the photobucket to a url instead of img you'll see that the other one works...probably does so because it has "img" in the url...

Have to see what can be done about it.

TOC Admin
Brando

Good observation Brando...

Norm, since you have hosted it yourself, I wont bother rehosting that link for a duplicate pic, if thats ok.

Andrew

Works for me.

Norm

What am I suposed to replace the screw with. I can't just throw it out, what's gonna hold it? Or is it supposed to be all loose? Whats a pot?

Replace the screw with nothing. Forget they existed. Whats left is what is supposed to be there, nothing less. A pot is also called a vaccum dashpot, its the round cylindrical "pancake" looking thing that the linkage is connected to. Once you find this, follow Norm's instructions.

Andrew

Just a brainfart here, could that plug have anything to do with emissions?

It goes in the intake into a metal hole, so its not air tight. Is it supposed to be?