Maybe, maybe not. Did you find where it goes, yet?


Yes.


Maybe, maybe not. Put it back, and show us a pic of it, in place.

Also we need to see more of the Choke housing and its black cover. Phillips screw under your arrow is one of three holding it on. Check for two electrical connectors at the bottom (under the hose) of the black disk.

Norm

Alright. Took out the rods for more pics, took off the black cover on the side. Here's the other side:



And the inside. for some reason my camera didn't want to zoom in, even in close up mode.




Here/s the metal hose I was talking about, the right one.


Comes out easy, and i can push it back in easy.



I don't know what you mean by disc with two wires, but I did find this.


And I can't seem to find the pot.

Here are the rods.
#1




#2




Also I noticed today when my engine is running, the flaps are closed off completely because this:



is all the way in and won't budge, but once I tun it off, I can open it manually. the engine was a little cold today because of the short ride home so the choke wasn't even open fully yet, don't know if that makes a difference.

Actually that should have been: Follow Norms instructions, and look for it, if ........

Norm

I'm guessing there are no wire connectors on the side we cannot see?






Metal hose = tube

If the tube on the left, goes to the rear of the choke housing you just took apart, the right one is it's (filtered) fresh air supply. Air goes into the chamber below the plate (choke stove) to be heated on it's way (via the left tube) to the choke thermostat,



where the heat causes the (bi-metal) spring to unwind, opening the choke.

It's not supposed to be loose. but it doesn't matter, as long as it doesn't fall out on it's own.

As an aside: I did not know they still used stoves in '88.


Those are not wires, they are hoses. I do not see enough of the area to ID the part.


Here the instructions, again.


"If no difference" were the operative words.



I don't see anything to be concerned about, you can put them back.


Flaps = secondary air valve. Is it closed when the engine is off?

Because the pot you did not need to look for, is working like it should, it will not let it open unless there is a vacuum drop. Going to WOT, for instance.


Proof that it is working properly.

Has the green rod fallen out of its slot, yet?


Not a bit.

Now comes the interesting part.

Since, I did not tell you to remove the thermostat (remember the three screws?), I did not tell you to mark its position. Loosening the screws and turning it, is how the choke is adjusted.

See if your manual tells you how to adjust the choke. If so, do it. If not, Report back.

Norm

Nope

So if its working properly and i'll let it go WOT while Im watching it with the air filter off I should see the secondaries open?



Uh, no, but it is loose since the bolt is gone. But it doesn't seem like it should fall out, a curve in the rod is holding it.



I'll look in the manual before I go to bed and report tomorrow.

Also, when I was removing the three screws from the black cover, they were on pretty tight, so I had to push a little to turn them. Well, When I got to the bottom one, the hole it was in jst bent. How bad is that?

Should have asked, in my last post.

Is the secondary air valve fully closed when the engine is off?


1) It's a stupid thing to do.

2) No. They do not open unless the engine needs more carb. Not possible under those circumstances.


Are we surprised?


Explain.

Norm

He can reference where the choke was, with this earlier picture he took:


It will at least show him where it was to begin with. He can fine-tune it with his manual like you suggested, norm.

Are we surprised?


Is there a point to this? You seem to be pretty concerned about that rod for some reason.


I just checked the carb after letting it warm up, and yes they do stay closed even after I turn it off. But like I said I can open it by hand easy.

My take is that you were wondering what would hold the rod in after that nut and bolt was removed. Now, you see how it operates, and you have learned something.

But, I'll let Norm speak for himself.

Andrew

Good thinking.


Yes.

There is a point to everything I say, and do. Some get it, some do not.


Temp makes no difference.


Since that is what they are supposed to do, it looks like they are adjusted properly. We will find out, as we continue.


Yes, you said that. The question was to address the part you did not say.



With the engine off, and the choke closed, see if the above linkage moves when the throttle is opened fully.

Repeat, while manually holding the choke open.



Did you find where this belongs?


Make that, "and everyone has learned something".

Norm

Man I was pissed off today morning. I haven't drove the car in 2 days and its been a couple of COLD ones. Tried starting it but its just wouldn't catch. After a few minues the battery drained. Then I try again but instead of cranking the engine, it made a really loud whining sound, something just kept spinning till it completely drained the battery, may be the starter? While it was doing that the tachometer shot all the way to 8,000. After that I got my gf to help me jump my car. after 10 more minutes of trying to crank it it finally started.

Why does it have such a hard time staring when its cold?

Did that help you solve your problem? Do you think if I tried being PO, it would make me a better troubleshooter?


I will take a wild guess.

You have not followed my instructions and because of that, there is still a problem with your carb.

Norm

Well the carb is fixed, I think. On cold days it will start if I pump it 3-4 times and try and start it and repeat that process 2-3 times. The problem was that the choke stayed opened even after it cooled down. Sometimes it still backfires, but today was the first time it did it since the fix. I believe its got something to do with my timing. The idle is down to its normal, the mechanic showed me how to do it.

And that litle doo-hikie plug is for a trans with OD, which I don't have anymore.

So now how can I start working on my codes?

Choke is out of adjustment.


Not surprising.


Right. You got ⅔ of the way through setting up you carb, then quit because you think your timing is off.


Good thing you found out how. Might come in handy in the future.


Did he tell you why it was set that high?


Your mechanic can show you how. Right after he finishes setting up your carb for you.

Norm

Well. Today I took the car over to him again. He adjusted and cleaned my carb, adjusted the timing, and found out my baro sensor was hooked up to a vacuum hose for some reason.

The new sensor was free, thanks to a local yunk yard, and he took 60 buks. No more codes flashing, and she's purring nice.