hey guys first off i have a 1992 oldsmobile eighty eight royale. i had a problem with stalling and rough idle so i cleaned out the throttle body and got a code 15 and a code 22 now it turns out the spark plug wires were causing the problem i replaced them and that stopped the rough idle and stalling. Now also i replaced the coolant tempature sensor underneeth the throttle body today and that cleared up the code 15. But now i still have the code 22 even after i put in a new tps today. Is there a special way to set the tps or a certain way to install it to make it work correctly and not set off a code? also i was told theres something called a throttle re-learn procedure would that help if i did that and if so how is that done? Because it takes about 15-20 seconds after i clear the codes and start the car for the service engine light to come on.

thanks jason

Hey, Jim here. Have you tried disconnecting the battery and letting the PCM recycle itself? I guess I better register under my own name.

Hi Jim, hello everyone,

You might want to read this this for a little background, before you reply further.

Regards, Norm

Hi Jim, all,


Please do, I've had enough of the "ebonics" spelling of Cutlass.

Regards, Norm

just to let you know i took it to one of my dads friends garages today and they fixed it im going to pick it up around 4:30 and i will let you know what they did to fix it

Just got the car back no check engine and they wouldnt tell me what they did to fix it but got half way down the street stopped at a light and the car started bucking and then stalled so i have no idea and when they scanned it cold and warm nothing showed up. Any ideas?

Can you get more descriptive on the bucking & stalling? does it buck on deceleration or acceleration? Does it slowly die out, or sharply die when it stalls? Does pumping the brakes have an effect on it? Wet weather?

Since you've eliminated all the codes out of the computer now, you can more acurately try and find the cause of this problem, which obviously isnt related to your sensor problems previous.

Thanks for helping me. The car bucks on deceleration and not all the time maybe once or twice a week when cold it bucks and the brakes barley hold the car back. now it will stay running if i put it in netural and rev it up a few times.Pumping the brakes has no effect on it neither does wet weather. Only happens when the car is cold and if it stalls after about 15 -20 seconds of bucking it will start right back up. and when it stalls theres no check engine light. Also if i pull off the oil filler cap the car goes into a real rough idle like when it stalls. dont know if any of this helps but hopefully it does

do you suppose this could be the locking torque converter, not unlocking, therefore bogging the engine down on deceleration, until it finally stalls? Just a thought... Anyone else?

i was thinking something like that too but i have a feeling its something mechanical i heard from my friends father who is a mechanic that if the oil filler cap is off and its jerking then im loosing alot of pressure somewhere and that is whats causing it but he also said that would do it all the time and that hes never seen anything like this before. Now before this all happened when i had the oil filler cap off it would never jerk or rough idle it would run the same on or off and now it runs good with it on and bad with it off. im leaning towards valve cover gaskets or idle air control valve.

any ideas?

Well, idle air control could certainly cause some interesting problems on warm up... Although I have no experience with Idle air controllers. I wonder if you can unplug it to see if it makes a difference for you? I am not even sure if its electrically actuated or vacuum?

Now, I'm intrigued. I am going to play with mine today!

mine is electronically adjusted its a piece with a spring that moves in and out controlling the ammount of air that can get past the throttle plate i have a feeling its sticking