first my car is a 1992 oldsmobile eighty eight royale it was jerking and stalling and i ran the codes at that time i had a code 66 low ac coolant level which should have nothing to do with the car jerking and stalling so just incase i baught a shorter belt and re routed it a different way without ac. well this still did not solve the problem. so i pulled off the throtle body and cleaned it out. it was covered in crud. when i put it back on i was getting a code 22 something do to with the throttle position sensor. thinking it was bad i went out and got a new one and still the code 22 and check engine light. then just yesterday i realised the coolant temp sensor underneeth the throttle body has never been changed so i replaced it and now i have a code 15 also. im ready to just junk this car if i dont get it figured out today ive spent atleast 3 months trying something new every other day. I was told it could be my ignition control modual or my computer. could this be possible.

btw i have a new maf , a new throttle position sensor, a new pcv valve new plugs and wires new coolant temp sensor, new coil packs , new altinator, new power steering pump , new ac compressor and probaly a couple other things that i cant remember. all replaced within 5 months ago


any ideas???

The TPS sensor you replaced could just need adjusting itself. The code 22 never went away, indicating that the TPS voltage is too low. This is resolved by rotating the sensor within its ajustment screw limits. Ideal voltage is 0.4V, but the computer will accept anything over 0.25V.

I had problems with jerking and backfiring, and after a lot of smashing my head, cleaning ignition module contacts and checking all the sensors, it turned out to be a damaged plug wire, leaking over to the next wire, creating a horrible backfire, and jerking when the spark would jump.

yes but i had my tps off and the lowest it went when i tested it was .38 and you said the computer accepts anything over .25 so thats definatly good and when i put it up to WOT it was something like 4.68 so i believe that to be good and then yesterday i changed the coolant temp sensor right underneeth the throttle body and i got the code 15 which is coolant circuit so i have no idea what i did there. and if my plug wires were bad again would it only jerk and stall when cold? once i go up and down the street once it idles fine and everything.

thanks

code 22... the only thing that means is TPS low. How did you measure the voltage? At the sensor, or through the computer? These two values COULD be different, if there is a bad signal connection at the ecm. +5V Power and ground connections could be good, but the wire that feeds the computer might be corroded or something.

If at all possible, use an ALDL program to monitor values, becuase reported values from ALDL are exactly what the ECM sees.

Did you reset the computer after doing all of this?

i disconnected the battery cables for 10 minutes and put them back on

any other ideas??

why do you feel you are getting a code 22? did you try an aldl reader?

btw, i think that if you find out why you are getting a code 22, youll find the coolant sensor problem also. did you check the wire loom for melting and such to the exhaust manifold crossover?

Yes i checked the wiring loom its fine no melting or broken wires. plus the car was jerking and stalling on me before i even started to mess with it and the car was throwing a code 66 back then even though it doesnt now so is there any other way to reset the computer other than what i was doing??

so what is a code 66?

Code 66, is set if the compressor is cycled on 10 or more times within 15 minutes and the compressor "on" time for each cycle is less than 1.5 seconds.

This is due to the refrigerant pressure being low, the computer protects the compressor by disabling the A/C relay and storing a code 66. Code 66 does not illuminate the "service engine soon" light.

Using a shorter belt is definately not necessary, and shouldn't have anything to do with your engine problems.

As for clearing codes, the same procedure is done with a SCAN tool, disconnect power to the computer for atleast 30 seconds. This can be done by simply removing the fuse, or disconnecting the battery.


TOC Admin
Brando

Would this cause the A/C Compressor to not kick on? Mine will not kick on anymore when we were testing it, and I thought it was toast, not it may just need recharged?

Sorry to hijack the thread, just want to know...

Well, if the computer flashes code 66, yes.
It could just need to be recharged, but there is mostly likely a leak so it should be vacuum tested first.

TOC Admin
Brando

Hi 92olds88royalle, Brando, 87Delta, hello everyone,


Yes.


It might be. No way to tell without testing it.


It may. See my comment on "testing" below.


Not a hijack. Those questions were on topic and a welcome contribution to the discussion.


This is most likely due to ........


There is a leak. It's the only way a system can lose refrigerant.


A "gauge set" is used to check for proper operation and to diagnose any problem a system might have.

A "leak detector" is used to find leaks.

A "vacuum pump" is used to remove contaminants from a system that has been opened.


92olds88royalle: As I stated in my response to your email, I only post advice in areas I'm familiar with. Refrigeration is one of those few subjects.

Regards, Norm

Thanks Brando and Norm on the A/C question, I'll know what to look for now when I check it come spring.