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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 4:27 pm 
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Intermittently the engine will die while driving, since this is my son’s car, I have not experience this occurrence.
Yesterday, he advise me that the car felt like it was going to stall on him on the way home from work, (only about 6 miles), also noted that the anti-free fluid was low.
When I got home I filled the reserve and started the car, let it run, turned on the AC, did not see any leaks.
He called me today stating that the anti-freeze was dry again and when he tried to start the car, it made a back fire noise. I told him to leave it and I would check it on my way home.
I purchased this car from a used car lot, one owner, looks good inside and out, eng very clean, looks like they added new plugs and battery.
We have had the car since last Oct, no Prob until around Jun, when it would not start, I went to where the car was, when I turned the key, it just made a click sound, I tighten the battery cables, and she started.
Another time, it died when he got home, no light nothing when he turned the key, when I got home, juggled the key in the starting column, inside dome light came back on, and she started. (The keys have a little sensor near the base of the key).
Now this new issue with the car not starting that I have to check out when I get home. Any suggestions would be a great help, I need to do the work myself, money is tight, my wife has MS, I don’t want to get ripped off at the local garage. Thanks for your help.
Dave


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 3:23 pm 
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Hi dcrice, hello everyone,

Welcome to TOC.

Quote:
........ he advise me that the car felt like it was going to stall on him on the way home from work ........

We need a lot more than that. What does that mean? How often does it happen? Is is still cold, or warmed up when it happens?

Computer codes can be valuable tools. Do you know how to get them?

Quote:
........ noted that the anti-free fluid was low ........ I filled the reserve and started the car, let it run, turned on the AC, did not see any leaks ........

Anti freeze (coolant) has nothing to do with the AC system. Did you check the oil? Did it run OK at that time?

You might pull the spark plugs and check for signs of misfire or coolant residue.

Quote:
........ He called me today stating that the anti-freeze was dry again and when he tried to start the car, it made a back fire noise ........

May or may not be related. Since they are specialists in that area, a radiator shop can tell you more than anyone on the internet.

Quote:
........ I don’t want to get ripped off at the local garage.

If you know they are dishonest, report them to your State Dept of Consumer affairs, and ask your co workers and neighbors to recommend a shop they are happy with.

Regards, Norm



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 7:34 am 
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Hi Norm,
thank you for your reply.
Last night, I went to check out my son car to see if I could get it to start.
The car was sitting in the lot all day, outside temp 85 dry.

When I opened the door dome light came on, noticed that my son left his phone
charger pluged in, which I un pluged.

When I placed the key in to start, all of the normal dash lights came on, turn
the key, click noise. dome light dimed.

I tryed to jump start the car, proper cables , other car at mid range engine
rpm's.
The Olds made the same "click" sound and the generator (if I am correct, located
top left side, Passenger side of the eng. wire from the neg terminal is wired
to this unit. also, this unit has the upper pully of the V-belt) made a quarter
turn.

Yes the battery post are clean and free of Corrosion.

Yes the belt was firmly in place.

Bottom line, it would not start. Left the car.

On my way home, I will buy a new battery. See hat happends.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 11:58 am 
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dcrice wrote:
........ my son left his phone charger pluged in ........

Just the charger?

Quote:
........ all of the normal dash lights came on, turn the key, click noise. dome light dimed ........

When you released the switch, did the dome light return slowly or quickly?

Quote:
........ I tryed to jump start the car, proper cables , other car at mid range engine rpm's ........

No reason to start the other car. The battery was not dead and the starting power comes from the booster battery, not the alternator. In this case, by running the other car at idle you could have heard the load change on the alternator that would verify the cables and connections were good.

Quote:
........ The Olds made the same "click" sound ........

Most likely, the booster cables were defective or did not have a good connection. It is possible the boosted battery needed a minute of charging before attempting to start it, but I doubt it.

Differences in the sounds of that "click" (like differences in the reactions of light bulbs) can tell you a lot about your electrical system.

Quote:
........ the battery post are clean and free of Corrosion ........

Did you inspect them visually, or did you take them off and clean them?

Quote:
........ On my way home, I will buy a new battery ........

Since they are sold on an exchange basis, it wouldn't hurt to take it in and have them test it before you spend the money.

Norm



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 8:24 am 
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Well, here is the bottom line, thanks to the genius engineer that designed a plastic upper intake manifold, like other victims of this poor design defect that GM will not acknowledge or fix, the manifold cracks, engine coolant leaks and fouls the plugs.

That also explains the coolant loss.

Thank you for your time and input.

Have a good weekend.

Dave


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 7:08 am 
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dcrice wrote:
Well, here is the bottom line ........ the manifold cracks, engine coolant leaks and fouls the plugs ........

Thanks for bringing us up to date.

We have been aware of the problem but do not have any way of accurately diagnosing it without more information than you gave us.

Please give us as much information, as you can, about how you pinpointed the problem.

Regards, Norm



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 8:13 am 
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Well, the saga continues,
My son picked up the car from Firestone on Friday afternoon; it ran well until Sunday night. He called me from the mall parking lot, advised me that the car would not start.
When I arrived to check out the situation, got in turn the key, all of the normal gauges and indication light came on, however, the only thing I could hear was a faint click.
Check the wiring from the battery post to the alt / generator.
I told my son that most likely the starter is dead or some other electrical anomaly.
One good thing was he was at the mall where the Firestone garage is located.
We pushed the car over to the garage, dropped the key in the drop box.
I received a call from the garage around 7:30 am; they need to replace the starter.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:08 am 
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dcrice wrote:
........ I don’t want to get ripped off at the local garage ........
dcrice wrote:
........ Firestone ........

Good luck.

dcrice wrote:
........ they need to replace the starter.

My posts are intended (aside from increasing everyones knowledge in the area) to help you find the cause of your problem(s) before you take it to a shop. Your reply to my second post would have told us if the starter, battery, or something else was the problem.

Please respond to my last post, as we can use the information to help this poster. As with you, I don't wish to suggest he replace his intake manifold, unless I'm sure it's actually the problem.

Norm



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 12:23 pm 
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I cannot let this one slide any longer.

dcrice wrote:
........ thanks to the genius engineer that designed a plastic upper intake manifold ........

The decision to use plastic was based on input from many departments and approved by multi levels of management. Final OK, came from the top.

As in all cases, engineering was given very narrow parameters, and told to "work within them".

Engineers did not cause the problems US car makers now enjoy, and they did not cause Olds to shut down.

Norm



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