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zamm18
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 Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 10:10 am |
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Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 12:19 am Posts: 3
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Hey everyone, I've got some problems with my '95 cutlass supreme SL. I've got a 3100 with 161000 miles, and it's started doing some weird things on me.
The first thing I noticed, I was giving my brother a ride to school, and I had the heat cranked to full. As I got a ways down the road, I noticed that the car was still putting out cold air, yet the engine temp was at 200. I thought this was really odd, then I noticed the temp guage climb dramatically, to almost into the red zone. Now I was getting worried (my last car, a '97 grand am, blew up on me), and as I gave it some gas to get me going somwhere, the air coming out of the car became warm, and the engine temp went down. Now I was really curious, because right after it warmed up, it instantly went back to where it was before I hit the gas.
When I got a chance, I checked the coolant level, and it was almost empty, so I filled it, drove to the end of the street and back, and it was empty again by the time I stopped. I talked to some mechanics I know, and eventually we replaced the water pump, it was shot, however the problem has not gone away. Although it has stopped leaking from the tank...
my friend with the mechanical abilities (mine are zilch, but I'm learning  ) said we need to leak the air bubble he says is trapped in there, so I was going to do that later, but first I wanted to see what people on here thought about the whole thing, 'cause y'all seem very nice and knowledgable.
thanks, Zach
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Brando
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 Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 1:13 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2003 3:58 pm Posts: 3166 Images: 29 Location: Michigan, USA
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For proper measure...I would run some Radiator Flush through it, I've used Prestone Super Flush...
Prestone wrote: Q. How do I flush my cooling system and install a fresh fill? A. Using a chemical flush prior to the fresh fill of antifreeze/coolant is an effective way to remove deposits from the cooling system. Prestone® offers several flushes that are designed for everything from routine maintenance to lime or rust scale. All of these cleaners are compatible with the cooling system components of any vehicle. We recommend the following: Use Prestone® Super Flush for routine maintenance. Use Prestone® Super Radiator Cleaner to remove corrosion and lime scale. If the directions on each of these cleaners are followed correctly, the end result will be an empty radiator and mostly water in the engine block and heater core. At this point, use a mix of 50% to 70% Prestone® Antifreeze/Coolant and water. This is easily accomplished if you know the capacity of the cooling system. Example: If the owners manual of your vehicle indicates that the capacity of the cooling system is 8 quarts, then you need to install 4 quarts of pure antifreeze. Note: Once the desired amount of concentrated antifreeze/coolant has been installed, the cooling system must be topped off with water to ensure a complete fill. Prestone® products also offers a Flush N' Fill Kit for backflushing the cooling system. This kit fits some cars and most light trucks. This backflush will remove more deposits than the chemical cleaner alone. If you are able to access the inlet heater hose on your vehicle, we recommend that you use one of the cleaners and then backflush the system.
Back flushing would be the best way to do it using their kit, I only filled the radiator (not the the overflow tank...it's called an overflow tank for a reason) with water and ran it with that for a while. Then after I had run it with that in there (heater on), I put the hose in top inlet of the radiator, turned the water on and opened the radiator drain...then turned the car back on to flush it out until it ran clear.
You'll want to drain it out completely afterwards (as much as possible) and fill 50% to 70% as recommend of coolant and water mix. Probably best to do 60/40, the reason as prestone says because you have plain ol' water in your block now.
TOC Admin
Brando
_________________ 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue GLS 1987 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale
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88 Coupe
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 Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 7:52 pm |
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Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 3:25 am Posts: 3196 Images: 10 Location: Southern California
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Hi zamm18, hello everyone,
Welcome to TOC.
For the less experienced. my first suggestion is always your local "Mom and Pop" radiator shop. They will give you an accurate diagnosis in less than five minutes, and they will not sell you a water pump, you do not need.
The following is assuming this is the first time it has given any indication of a problem.
Quote: ........ As I got a ways down the road, I noticed that the car was still putting out cold air, yet the engine temp was at 200 ........ What timeframe? Quote: I noticed the temp guage climb dramatically, to almost into the red zone ........ as I gave it some gas ........ the air coming out of the car became warm, and the engine temp went down ........ How quickly? Quote: ........ right after it warmed up, it instantly went back to where it was before I hit the gas ........ Instantly? Quote: ........ I checked the coolant level, and it was almost empty, so I filled it, drove to the end of the street and back, and it was empty again ........ If you filled the reservoir, I'm guessing, the engine pulled the coolant out to replace the air it was sending into the radiator. Quote: ........ we replaced the water pump, it was shot, however the problem has not gone away ........ Which indicates, the pump was not the problem Quote: ........ Although it has stopped leaking from the tank ........ Which tank and where was the leak? If it went out an overflow tube, it would not be called a leak. Quote: ........ my friend with the mechanical abilities ........ said we need to leak the air bubble he says is trapped in there ........
I would be questioning those mechanical abilities.
Has the "overheating" problem recurred? Does the car run OK otherwise?
Regards, Norm
_________________ Harry S. Truman wrote: When you have an efficient government, you have a dictatorship.
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88 Coupe
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 Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 7:57 pm |
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Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 3:25 am Posts: 3196 Images: 10 Location: Southern California
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87Delta wrote: ........ you may want to replace the thermostat ........
Nothing, so far, points to a faulty thermostat. The fact that it "fixed itself", tends eliminate it as the culprit.
Most factory stats are capable of outlasting the car they came in, yet they are the first component to get the blame for any heating problem.
Norm
_________________ Harry S. Truman wrote: When you have an efficient government, you have a dictatorship.
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87Delta
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 Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 8:20 pm |
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Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 5:50 pm Posts: 690 Images: 6 Location: Mississippi
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88 Coupe wrote: 87Delta wrote: ........ you may want to replace the thermostat ........ Nothing, so far, points to a faulty thermostat. The fact that it "fixed itself", tends eliminate it as the culprit. Most factory stats are capable of outlasting the car they came in, yet they are the first component to get the blame for any heating problem. Norm
It was a possibility. Not everyone is "the oh mighty one" with knowledge like you appear to be.
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88 Coupe
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 Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 9:11 pm |
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Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 3:25 am Posts: 3196 Images: 10 Location: Southern California
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With apologies to zamm18, for 87Deltas immaturity.
87Delta wrote: ........ It was a possibility ........ It was bogus advice, unless you advocate throwing random parts at it until he finds the right one. 87Delta wrote: ........ Not everyone is "the oh mighty one" with knowledge like you appear to be.
And those that don't, should not post in topics where they have little or no knowledge.
If you have any problems with my posts, read this, then post your comments there, instead of hijacking this thread.
Norm
_________________ Harry S. Truman wrote: When you have an efficient government, you have a dictatorship.
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87Delta
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 Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 9:27 pm |
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Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 5:50 pm Posts: 690 Images: 6 Location: Mississippi
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88 Coupe wrote: If you have any problems with my posts, read this, then post your comments there, instead of hijacking this thread.
Like it isn't as bad as half the threads you manage to turn into a debacle with long ass reads of you always trying to prove you're right? Hah, right.
And don't apologize for my actions, mind your own damn business.
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Ilovemy98
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 Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 11:05 pm |
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Joined: Fri Sep 01, 2006 10:35 pm Posts: 101 Images: 5 Location: Muncie, Indiana
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Before this gets too ugly.... why don't we all take a collective "deep breath" and realize that we are all here to help each other? Everybody's style is a little different... and as long as we can try to see past that, we all can learn a lot... And can someone please explain to me why Norm can't give advice without somebody feeling like they are being attacked? He's not attacking you... so calm down. Or just tell me to mind my own business. I'm not looking to burn any bridges here, just calling it how I see it.
-Carl
_________________ I miss the 98... but I'm loving the Regal!
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Brando
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 Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 11:27 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2003 3:58 pm Posts: 3166 Images: 29 Location: Michigan, USA
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Here is instructions for proper draining and filling of coolant for your car.
Coolant: Service and Repair wrote: DRAININGNOTE: This procedure significantly increases the amount of used coolant and diluted hazardous waste. 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. 2. Remove and clean coolant recovery reservoir. 3. Remove the radiator cap when the engine is cool by: a. Slowly rotating the cap counterclockwise to detent. Do not press down while rotating pressure cap. b. Wait until any residual pressure (indicated by a hissing sound) is relieved. c. After all hissing stops, continue to rotate counterclockwise until the cap is removed. IMPORTANT: Recover coolant and store in a used coolant holding tank and submit the used coolant for recycling on a regular basis. This procedure significantly increases the amount of used coolant and diluted hazardous waste. 4. Place drain pan under vehicle to collect all drained coolant. 5. Open the radiator drain valve located at the bottom of the radiator tank. For procedures requiring the cooling system to be partially drained, opening the radiator drain valve should provide sufficient draining and no further actions should be necessary. 6. Remove the thermostat housing cap and thermostat or open the air bleed vent(s).  ^ Open the air bleed vents on the thermostat housing and above water pump. The air bleed vents should be opened two to three turns. 7. Remove the engine block drains:   ^ Remove both engine block drains. The front engine block drain is located between the starter and the engine oil filter. The rear engine block drain is located by the engine crank sensor. 8. Allow the coolant to drain completely. IMPORTANT: Dispose of used coolant in a proper fashion, i.e., in a used coolant holding tank. NEVER POUR USED COOLANT DOWN THE DRAIN! Ethylene glycol antifreeze is a very toxic chemical; disposing of it into the sewer system or ground water is both illegal and ecologically unsound! INSPECT^ The drained coolant: If the coolant is discolored. flush the cooling system; If the coolant appearance is normal. continue with the filling procedure. FILLING1. Close the radiator drain valve. Reinstall all engine block drains. 2. Install the coolant recovery reservoir. Flush the reservoir with clean water, drain and reinstall. CAUTION: Under some conditions, the ethylene glycol engine coolant is combustible. To help avoid being burned, DO NOT spill antifreeze or coolant on the exhaust system or hot engine parts.NOTICE: Fill the cooling system using GM approved recycled or new Ethylene/Glycol coolant antifreeze meeting GM Specification 1825/1899-M. To ensure sufficient engine cooling, freezing and corrosion protection, maintain the protection level at -37 °C (-34°F) or lower. Use a solution that is no more than 70 percent antifreeze. 3. Slowly fill the cooling system through the radiator neck using the following procedure: ^ If the coolant system has been flushed, first add 100 percent ethylene glycol in the amount listed for the appropriate engine application. Then slowly add clean water to the system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached the base-of the radiator neck. Wait for two minutes and recheck the level of the coolant mixture, add clean water if necessary to restore the coolant mixture level to the base of the radiator neck. IMPORTANT: When refilling the engine cooling system, add two engine coolant supplement sealant pellets, GM P/N 3634621 or equivalent, and GM approved recycled or new Ethylene/Glycol coolant antifreeze meeting GM Specification 1825/1899-M. ^ If the cooling system is being refilled ONLY (no flush), a 50 percent ethylene glycol and 50 percent clean water mixture should be used to fill the system. Fill the system until the level of the 50/50 mixture has reached the base of the radiator neck. Wait two minutes and recheck the level of the coolant mixture, add a 50/50 ethylene glycol/water mixture as necessary to restore the coolant mixture level to the base of the radiator neck. 4. Install the radiator cap making certain the arrows line up with the overflow tube. 5. Close all air bleeds. DO NOT over torque the air bleed valve. The air bleed valve is made out of brass. 6. Fill the coolant reservoir with a 50 percent ethylene glycol and a 50 percent clean water coolant mixture. The proper amount of this mixture to be installed into the coolant reservoir is listed below: ^ Add 1.7 liters (1.8 quarts) of a 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol and clean water to the coolant recovery reservoir. CAUTION: The low coolant indicator lamp may come on after this procedure. After operating the vehicle so that the engine heats up and cools down three times. If at any time the "TEMP" warning indicator comes on, immediate action is required.INSPECT^ Inspect the freeze protection of the engine coolant after the engine heats up and cools down three times using a refractometer or a thermohydrometer to ensure proper freeze -37° C (-34° F) protection. Obtain the coolant mixture for the inspection from the vase of the radiator neck, NOT from the coolant recovery reservoir.
TOC Admin
Brando
_________________ 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue GLS 1987 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale
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88 Coupe
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 Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 1:39 am |
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Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 3:25 am Posts: 3196 Images: 10 Location: Southern California
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88 Coupe wrote: Quote: ........ my friend with the mechanical abilities ........ said we need to leak the air bubble he says is trapped in there ........ I would be questioning those mechanical abilities. Coolant: Service and Repair wrote: ........ Open the air bleed vents on the thermostat housing and above water pump. The air bleed vents should be opened two to three turns ........
Then again, maybe I wouldn't.
Brando: Thanks for the heads up.
Norm
_________________ Harry S. Truman wrote: When you have an efficient government, you have a dictatorship.
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88 Coupe
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 Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 6:14 pm |
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Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 3:25 am Posts: 3196 Images: 10 Location: Southern California
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Brando wrote: For proper measure...I would run some Radiator Flush through it ........
Good idea, if the cooling system has not been properly maintained. However, nothing in his post indicates a need for it.
When he replies, with the needed clarification, his new info could. Who knows, it might even point to a faulty thermostat.
Norm
_________________ Harry S. Truman wrote: When you have an efficient government, you have a dictatorship.
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zamm18
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 Posted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 12:36 pm |
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Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 12:19 am Posts: 3
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alright evveryone, sorry for not getting back sooner, I had a horrible week, first my car, then my internet, then my friends really pissing me off.
anyways, I'm back for some clarification, now that I'm using my schools connection.
first off, right after I made the post, I had to try driving the car, however it instantly overheated, and I pulled over and waited for my friend to come, because of a faulty radiator cap from jiffy lube, coolant had been lost in large amounts from the neck. When my friend got there, we went to the closest parts store (just down the street, how lucky is that...) and picked up a new cap, and another bottle of coolant.
we put the coolant in the system, and we bled it this time, there was a lot of air in there, after we finished, we drove her around for a while, and she seemed to be doing fine. However, after a little while, when I really accelerated, the temp would go straight up from normal to right next to the red zone. we were a little worried, but she seemed to cool down right away. Anyways, we went to the Advanced Auto Parts that my friend works at, and asked his manager what he though, and he first called thermostat, said it was not opening up when it should be. we also called another friend who works at a different parts store in Des Moines, and we got the exact same response. we bought a new thermostat, and will be installing it soon.
Now, to answer some questions, first off, the timeframe I gave her to warm up was plenty of time for her to usually warm up, yet she was putting out cold air. Next, when I hit the gas, the engine temp went down to normal quickly, right away in fact. Then, yes, it would instantly go back to being quite hot.
Now, I didn't mean to say tank when I said it was leaking, sorry. It was actually leaking from the water pump, which we fixed, and it doesn't appear to be leaking, but it's not 100% sure...
Now, after I have driven it a bit, the overheating does recur, it will get hot, then right before it hits the red zone, it suddenly drops to 200. My friend says this is the thermostat opening, and that it should not be opening like this, and I tend to agree with him. Yes, the car runs just fine otherwise, starts right up, no gear problems ect... (it shouldn't, the transmission is only a year old...)
I would like to thank you all for your quick responses, I greatly appreciate it, and will try to check back sooner for your feedback.
thanks again, Zach
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