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 Post subject: Oil Change
PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 8:52 am 
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Location: Solon ohio
Purchased a 01 Inturigue as a replacement for a stolen Acura from the local Ford dealership. Replaced all the filters(except the oil) , and the PVC valve. Need some info. on how to change the oil, and filter(3.5 L). The filter is reminisent of the oil cartridge I had on my Saab. Like the car so far better on gas . Also I have a "clunking sound" in the front end think it is either the struts,springs or tie rod ends.

Also looking for a place to have the car looked at in the Solon Ohio Area

thanks Roz


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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change
PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 1:21 pm 
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Uh. remove oil filter, drain old oil, put new filter back on, fill it up with new oil. :-s



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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change
PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 2:02 pm 
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Alright...assuming you know the general process of changing oil, which gravereaper0 has so kindly reminded us about... :lol:

First of all, here are some specifications:

Fluid Capacity:
With the change of filter, 6.5 quarts of oil is required. 5W-30 is the recommended engine oil viscosity.

Torque Specifications:
Oil Filter Canister - 18 lb ft (25 N*m)
Drain Plug - 15 lb ft (20 N*m)


You'll need a special type of socket to remove the canister, I happened to have one laying around here when I got my intrigue (Coincidence?), so it's not really a proprietary type of socket (not necessary to buy from GM).

The Kentmoore tool that GM recommends is the J 29142.
Usually expensive! and not easy to find.

The tool I am using is made by a company called CTA Tools, RiteFit, model A250. Not sure of other brands, but this should help you pick out an oil filter socket at the local auto parts store.
If they don't carry the CTA Tools RiteFit brand, the specifications of the socket are:
Diameter: 74/76mm No. Flutes: 15

Here's a link if you can't find one local: RiteFit A250



Resetting the change oil light, the gas pedal procedure is what works for me. Turn ignition to on position, don't crank it. Press gas pedal fully 3 times within 5 seconds of turning the ignition to the on position. You'll see the change oil light start to flash and that means it is resetting, you can turn the ignition off, and start the engine up. It should turn the light off. Do this procedure after every oil change, even if the light isn't on. Otherwise the "oil life monitor" will still be stuck on your last oil change and you'll have the inconvenience of the oil light turning on when it shouldn't.

Here's what GM lists for resetting the light:
Quote:
1. Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine off.
2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal three times within five seconds.
3. If the CHANGE OIL light flashes, the system is resetting.
4. Turn the key to OFF after the light has finished flashing, then start the vehicle. If the CHANGE OIL light comes back on, the engine oil life system did not reset. Repeat the procedure.


I think that covers most of it...any more questions feel free to ask.

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Brando



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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change
PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 2:43 pm 
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Here's some more sources for an oil filter wrench:
Did a little search on NAPA's site...SER3861 shows up as 74/76mm and 15 flutes.

3861 is listed as a KD Tool, as seen here at PartsAmerica.

Matco tools also lists a wrench, but it's rather pricey. MST6901

Doing a google search apparently, the RiteFit A258 also works. It's 74mm and 15 flutes, no denotation for 76mm. I guess mine is for both 74mm and 76mm, but it works perfectly.

The FloTool #4 10604B cross references to both the A250 and A258, so it will also work.

Hopefully that fulfills your oil filter wrench needs for your intrigue... :D

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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change
PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 2:53 pm 
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Location: Solon ohio
Brando wrote:
Alright...assuming you know the general process of changing oil, which gravereaper0 has so kindly reminded us about... :lol:

First of all, here are some specifications:

Fluid Capacity:
With the change of filter, 6.5 quarts of oil is required. 5W-30 is the recommended engine oil viscosity.

Torque Specifications:
Oil Filter Canister - 18 lb ft (25 N*m)
Drain Plug - 15 lb ft (20 N*m)


You'll need a special type of socket to remove the canister, I happened to have one laying around here when I got my intrigue (Coincidence?), so it's not really a proprietary type of socket (not necessary to buy from GM).

The Kentmoore tool that GM recommends is the J 29142.
Usually expensive! and not easy to find.

The tool I am using is made by a company called CTA Tools, RiteFit, model A250. Not sure of other brands, but this should help you pick out an oil filter socket at the local auto parts store.
If they don't carry the CTA Tools RiteFit brand, the specifications of the socket are:
Diameter: 74/76mm No. Flutes: 15

Here's a link if you can't find one local: RiteFit A250



Resetting the change oil light, the gas pedal procedure is what works for me. Turn ignition to on position, don't crank it. Press gas pedal fully 3 times within 5 seconds of turning the ignition to the on position. You'll see the change oil light start to flash and that means it is resetting, you can turn the ignition off, and start the engine up. It should turn the light off. Do this procedure after every oil change, even if the light isn't on. Otherwise the "oil life monitor" will still be stuck on your last oil change and you'll have the inconvenience of the oil light turning on when it shouldn't.

Here's what GM lists for resetting the light:
Quote:
1. Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine off.
2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal three times within five seconds.
3. If the CHANGE OIL light flashes, the system is resetting.
4. Turn the key to OFF after the light has finished flashing, then start the vehicle. If the CHANGE OIL light comes back on, the engine oil life system did not reset. Repeat the procedure.


I think that covers most of it...any more questions feel free to ask.

TOC Admin
Brando


Thanks for your assistance, I think the filter canister is up front to the left by the radiator hose. Will be using Mobil ! as I did on all my cars.


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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change
PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 2:58 pm 
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Oh, actually, it's recessed into the oil pan.

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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change
PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 7:23 pm 
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Brando wrote:
Oh, actually, it's recessed into the oil pan.

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Brando

thanks for your help


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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change
PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 1:09 pm 
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Finished chaging the oil, was very easy to do. Had the wrench for the filter by luck, and only took 10 mins at the most. Now to do the fuel filter in the future, and find a Haynes or other type manual. The car is ok so far Handles the snow better than the Acura, and the mpg is a lot more than the Acura. Heard somewhere that this may be a "mini-northstar" type engine....


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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change
PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 7:12 pm 
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Hi rozslvk,

Welcome to TOC.

Quote:
........ and find a Haynes or other type manual ........

Here is the one the others get their information from.

Well worth the money, if you plan on keeping the car.

Regards, Norm



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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 10:11 pm 
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88 Coupe wrote:
Hi rozslvk,

Welcome to TOC.

Quote:
........ and find a Haynes or other type manual ........

Here is the one the others get their information from.

Well worth the money, if you plan on keeping the car.

Regards, Norm


Yes, I will second that. Those service manuals are 10x better than a Haynes or Chilton. They have a lot of good info.



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