On the 98 olds I think I have a bad starter. I will have the sound file up whenever it goes through my e-mail. It makes an initial sound, but the car is not turning over. I don't know where the hell the starter is, to even attempt to beat on it for a temp fix(didn't jack the car up). I have some 6 gauge jumper cables that I always keep with me, so I hooked em up to a jumper car, and then to the 98. I immediately noticed spark from the cable at the batt terminal, and it also shut the jumper car off and the cable was warm.

trying to start car

again

Check/clean the battery cable connections.


Reversed polarity (+ on - and - on +) will cause that.

Always consult the manual, before using jumpers on a "computer" car.

Norm

Theres a dust shield underneath that you need to unscrew first (2x10mm IIRC) Then you will have access to the starter bolts, two 13mm bolts, IIRC hold it up, a swivel joint makes it alot easier, to drop. Try what the above post mentioned already, then id take the starter off and take it to autozone to get tested.

Yes, not only because it is the first step in the diagnostic process, but because it is one of the basic maintenance items that is often overlooked.


Again, relying on his many years of troubleshooting experience, 91buickman ignores the normal diagnostic process, and sends the poster on a wild goose chase.

Removal of the starter, is normally done after a starter draw test (the part of the process that 91buickman knows nothing about) shows the starter to be defective.


And hope that the store manager has been there for more than two years. Five, or more years, would be an indication, that he might actually have a clue.

Norm

Sorry if I repeat what has already been said- I have rebuilt starters, alternators, generators, etc for a number of years, so I'll offer up some insight-

Starters get blamed for a lot of electrical problems, but starters rarely go bad.

There is a really easy way to figure out what the problem is, and it has already been pretty much laid out for you here.

When performing diagnostic checks, you always want to strive for the most easily obtainable solution and progress toward the most difficult problems. There are many reasons for this, which could fill another thread.

Check the battery connections, both sides. If the look clean, take them apart anyway. Corrosion can exist on the connection, and not be visible unless you take it apart. While you are checking the connections, take notice of the cable condition. If the cables are brittle and stiff, replace them.

Secondly, once you have good connections to the battery, and you know the battery is fully charged, load test the battery. If you do not own a load tester, the local auto parts store should be able to check the battery for you, but load testers are fairly inexpensive, so now might be the time to make that 20 dollar investment.

Once you know you have a good battery, have a friend turn the key over,while you measure the voltage in a couple of places. First check for voltage to the battery side of the solenoid. Then check for voltage on the starter side of the solenoid. If no voltage is present, check the small terminal for voltage. If voltage is present there, but not on the starter side, you have a faulty solenoid. If voltage is present on the starter side, but the starter does not turn, the starter is in need of either repair or replacement. If the starter turns slowly, do a draw test. I am not sure of the specifications of what the draw should be on your starter, but any good FSM should have that figure. If no voltage is present on the s terminal, you have a problem in the switch circuit, not the starter circuit.

Removing the starter for a bench test should be one of the last things you do in the diagnostic procedure.

If it turns out to be a bad solenoid, you can replace just the solenoid. Most people replace the whole starter assembly, but that is up to you I suppose.

Good post.

I was waiting for him to tell us that the cable connections were the problem, and that he did not FUBAR one, or both, of his computers.


I usually look for the most likely, based on what I see/hear/feel.


Doesn't matter what you see, clean them anyway. To get it done right, use the proper tools.


This is one of the many items I do without thinking about it. It's why I sometimes fail to mention some of the vital details.

Turn the headlights on, and observe the reaction when the key is turned to the start position, then released.

If they don't go on, or are dim. the battery is low/dead. If they are bright, it can still be to low to start the engine.

If you hear a light click at the starter, you should see a slight flicker in the light. This shows there is power to the solenoid/relay, but the starter motor is not being activated.

If the light(s) go dim and return to bright immediately on release of the switch, the battery and solenoid/relay are good, the starter is suspect.

If the lights go dim and return slowly, the battery is low.

If the lights go dim and stay dim, the cable connections need attention.

All this takes about 3 seconds.

Or you could remove the starter, take it to Autozone, reinstall it after it tests OK, then start the diagnosis at the beginning.


A this point I turn the engine over, by hand, to make sure it's not seized.


If it failed the current draw, and the engine was not seized, the bench test could show the starter was not adequately grounded. I usually do the "bench" test on the floor.

Hook the + side of those jumper cables to the cable connection on the starter and the - side to the case. Short the solenoid/relay to the cable connection, with that broken screwdriver you keep around for that purpose.

If the motor comes up to speed instantly, the starter is good, the ground was not.

If it comes up to speed at anything less than instant, you can take it to Autozone to match up with your new starter. If it matches, visually, you can be assured that they sold you the right part.


If the R&R is a major operation, conventional wisdom says to replace everything while it's apart. It assumes the replacement will last longer than the replaced.

Norm

just put up the sound file