Can't wait to see pictures of that intake of yours...88delta88

TOC Admin
Brando

hey DK how would i do that to my olds cutlass cirea its got a 4 banger wit a circle air filter well the pic ofmy engine bay is in here>http://www.cardomain.com/id/blingbling666

First, I'd get a K&N filter, and see if that helps much by itself. Then, I think I'd get a piece of PVC pipe that's about the same size as your filter, and glue it in the place of the filter. Get a hood scoop or cut a hole in your hood, and glue the filter to the top of the pipe, where it can get fresh air. Make a lid on the filter to seal out the dirty air.


Other than that, I don't know what to tell you, with the way your motor is set up. That vertical intake makes a velocity stack hard to engineer without a hole in the hood.

Do a google search for "velocity stack" for more ideas.

DK

DK, I did my 0-60 test, as you were curious as to what I would get... It came back at 10.6 seconds. I dont know what you get, or what I got before my intake setup. I dunno if thats slow for a delta88 or quick, but I know I'm not going to win any awards

Oh, don't worry about the first try. The key is practice. The launching technique makes about a 1/2 second difference. How did you launch, and how did you measure? Since our speedos tend to lag a little, it's also important to stop the clock as the front of the needle just reaches 60, instead of waiting for it to go over it. Also, learn to powerbrake the car. You put one foot on the brake, and gas it until it grabs a little, and hold it steady till you're ready to go. Then smoothly roll into full throttle, taking about a second to reach WOT, and don't lift at all until you pass 60. Put some spring spacers in the rear, set the front air pressure to about 34, and the rear to about 39-40. This puts more weight on the front and minimizes the rolling resistance of the rear.

Those are a few basic tips, haha.

Also, you may be running lean with your setup. If your intake bends at all, the inertia of the intake air causes it to carry around the outside of the bend. That could be causing some of the air to miss the MAF, causing a lean combustion condition. That's one of the reasons I chose a straight pipe, and I still have a lean condition at times. Make sure you run the highest octane available - 93 or 94 if you can get it. Just one octane number makes a difference on our cars, especially when they're lean. I still have to get a new MAF screen to really straighten out the air for a more accurate MAF reading.

If it's tuned right, you should get at least a 9.5 or less, if you practice your launches.

One other thing - these cars run best in cold air (of which you have plenty) but with warmed up engines. In cold air, it takes longer for the motor to enter closed loop operation, and that means that the 02 sensor will be mostly ignored, so your computer won't read the lean condition, and won't be able to compensate with extra fuel. Two or three back to back runs generally get the motor warmed and ready. One single run rarely gives as good of a number as the second or third.

I'm regularly running sub 9s (0-60), and that's with a motor slightly out of tune. There's tons more potential.
DK

Well... I've got pictures of my setup posted in my album, if any one is interested. Let me know what you guys think of it, or how I could make it better. Since I've added about 150 pounds of audio equipment in the trunk, my car doesnt perform like it used to... So I likely wont be persuing more than my 10.6 second 0-60 time. But, Im not exactly upset with this number either - thats plenty quick for me!

I dont really think there's any way to get cool air into the engine. The throttle body is actually connected to coolant lines which allow hot coolant to encricle the throttle body. It's to make sure ice doesnt build up on it and cause it to stick. So reguardless of the cooler air coming in, the throttle body is still going to heat it to 200 degrees plus. You could to a coolant bypass if you wanted to.

the coolant bypass modification is fairly common on modified TPI engines, and very easy to do. I'd imagine it would make somewhat of a difference, as the throttle body would stay quite a bit cooler...how much I dunno

I had no idea that there was coolant lines in the throttle body. I'll have to locate them now, because I am curious. I dont think i'll modify it at all.

the coolant bypass is not worth the effort. the throttle body gets hot anyway with heat from the engine. the little power (if any) gained is not worth messing with it.

Gentlemen, I have a progress report to make.

Today, which started rather roughly with a SES light, and lots of to-do from the car, turned out the best day yet. You see, I've been having lean running conditions in the car for quite a while now. It made the car run like crap much of the time. Well, today I happened to give her a nice meal of premium gas (as always), but then the simplest idea took me. I knew that gunked up injectors would restrict fuel delivery severely, but I had run Sea Foam through my system only a few thousand miles ago.

Well, when I first inherited the keys to the car, the mechanic pretty much called it junk. It was idling roughly and quitting sometimes.
He just said it was a worn camshaft, because he couldn't figure what else it could be. I got to thinking, and it made sense that the injectors could be clogged some (this was at 279k). I got some Sea-Foam, and presto! The car ran much much better.

Fast forward...I have taken the car to many different areas, and have had plenty opportunities to get bad gas, etc...so the injectors really needed a cleaning. I am here to tell you that Sea Foam will make a night and day difference. The power that it released from having sufficient fuel to match the extra air coming from the custom intake was tremendous! I went from 8.94 best ever 0-60 to an 8.66 with good launch, and an 8.76 with wheel spin. I'm guessing that it netted me 15 extra horses in order to make that much difference. I ain't making it up either.

All that time with the stock restrictive airbox, the fuel system didn't need to work that well. Therefore, when I put the new intake on, it appeared as though the MAF wasn't able to pick up the extra air intake. All the while, it was really just the fuel system unable to deliver. No wonder I thought it was the fuel pump so long! Just to think that the mechanic blamed it on the intake makes me mad now. Anyway, with a good chip, I could be down in the 8.2 area...that's Aurora territory! We're talking about a frikkin' 12 valve v6 iron motor here, not an aluminum v8 32 valve, haha. Well, I've bubbled enough for now. I sure hope that really did fix the problem, and that something else won't come up now. I sure did have fun with my Rocket today!

DK

Just out of curiousity here but how do time your 0-60? If your going by the speedo it could be way off.

DK, you said something about my MAF on my site... I have a VIN 3 motor, and everyone else has vin C or something... I notice a lot of people have a nice little plastic cover overtop of thier intake manifolds, I have none.

What is the major differences between vin C and vin 3??? I heard somewhere that my 3.8 has a roller cam... Not sure about any of it... its all rumors. Anyone know for sure?

a vin 3 motor is the older 3.8. a vin C motor is a 3800. 3800 have a balance shaft to smooth out the idle a bit. the older 3.8's, either 3 or B do not have a balance shaft. C's and 3's have a roller cam, B's have a flat tappet cam. the only B motor i have seen was in a Toronado.

Cool... Thats some info I never knew! Thanks!