I would say if you dont find a leak, then let us know... Make sure to inspect all lines and plugs, and if any are cracked or hard, replace them. You may need to buy a few feet of different sized vac. line and a package of assorted vac. plugs so you can replace stuff as you go. Best bet here is if you think it might leak, replace it. Vac. line is cheap as hell, and replacing all of it will elminate vac. leaks as result of bad hoses and plugs. Just do them one at a time and it will be easy.

One more question... Is this car stock??

Andrew

Hi All,


What does that mean?


No one said it was.


Answer all my questions, to the best of your ability.

I'll try to explain more when I can do it without complicating the actual process.


Same "G" Body “racecar” that was the subject of about 8 previous threads.

Early 350/350, HEI, duals with manifolds, and a 373 posi. Generic rebuild with an upgraded cam (unknown specs) and Edelbrock Intake/vac secondary carb.

Other than the cam, lower compression, and the smaller carb, the engine would still be stock.

Couldn't get him to take the first steps toward finding the power it's capable of. He was too busy asking how to make it go fast, and not paying enough attention to the answers. Looks like that may have changed.

Norm

Im going to go look at timing lights today and possibly get one. Tune it down meaning time it to about 15degrees advanced and go from there. I was checking around the carb last night and Noticed something. Theres a vac thing sticking out that isnt plugged. I looked it up and its a vac line for: Full manifold vacuum port. Right next to the PCV vacuum port which is loosly connected on the other end. I need to check but i think the Power brake vacuum port is open too. This is how it was when i got it. Could this be my problem/only problem? I also noticed by spraying some of the carb cleanin on it that there is a ton of soot on the secondary side of things, and im oging to guess its the same for the primary but it just is harder to see because of the choke plate. This is what i have so far and will get more eventually when i have more time. but w/ the temp being so cold its hard to go out and mess around.

Thanks again for all your help, and To the saying above. :"Couldn't get him to take the first steps toward finding the power it's capable of. He was too busy asking how to make it go fast, and not paying enough attention to the answers. Looks like that may have changed." Yea, I have broke myself from the "ricer" mentality and are really getting into things. People ask my why i just dont take it somehwere and just have someone do it, but if i did that, i would have accomplished nothing.

Good, it will be handy when the time comes to use it. As I said, in one of your other threads, it might be one of the most valuable tools you'll ever own.


Right now, it's fine where it is. We have a few real problems to deal with first. By all means, check it and post it, but do but do not change it.

So you mean, check or set the dist advance. That, along with a plug change, etc, would be part of a "tune up". "Tuning" is the word used to describe the building of a performance engine, and is not to be confused with the above "tuneup" which is basic maintenance.


Are you sure it's not ported? Full vacuum will be a major leak, ported will be minor. Either way it needs to be plugged. You can get an assortment of vacuum caps at your local auto parts store. All hoses should be replaced as long as you're there.


You'll find out when you fix it. Needs a new hose.


That means the fuel is going to go rich when the vac leaks are closed. Do you know where the mixture and idle speed screws are?


We'll address that later, if need be.


Always allow enough time to do it right.


That's what I've been hoping for. I'm still not comfortable with your questions, though. You still need to adjust you mindset to reflect a curiosity of "how it works", not "what will fix it?".

If you know how it works, you already know what's wrong and how to fix it. If not you'll still have to ask someone who does know. Until you know the basics, you will continue to rely on someone elses expertise.

One thing I didn't mention. You need to remember how it reacted to anything you changed or adjusted, as well as the way it acted before. Understanding the symptoms when the flooding occured vs the lean condition you have now will go a long way. Many things can cause either condition, and cures for each are the opposite. The next time one occurs, you'll know in a few seconds which it is, and which repair is needed.

Regards, Norm

Hello,
Ive been playin around for the better part of the day in the garage and replaced all the vacuum lines and they appeared all to be fine. The power break wasnt off and the full vacuum wasnt either, so im not sure what i was thinking when i wrote that last one. Sprayed everything down w/ the carb cleaner and nothing appeared to be leaking. and i just could not figure it out, so i put the timing light on it to get the initial timing and it was like, 40 degrees, Yikes. I was lookin at the carb and it just wasnt looking right. and then it hit me and was like, ooo. So the choke was sticking. it wasnt comming off the choke and that is why there was hardly a difference between my fast idle and my hot idle because it wasnt freakin gettin un-choked but just a tiny little bit. This a problem? I played with it and got it unstuck but its being naughty and just isnt right. Is thre any way to change it from electric choke to manual? It was pissing me off through the roof so i just disconnected it, no use engine was at running temp. but that would really help if i could change the choke, or ill just get a different carb. So after that mess was delt with and I set the idle screw down so it would idle decent because it was running a bit hot, I set the timing to a 25 degree adv. initial timing and a 40 degree adv. total timing at 3500rpm. thats just what a guy said to put it at that would make it run really nice up here in south dakota w/ an elevation of 1650 ^ sea level. The vacuum advanced isnt hooked up. So after all that I took it out and drove it a bit and got on it some bit too, and:


A: was idleing at about 8-850 rpm
B: didnt hesitate to accelerate rpm
C: didnt die at stop signs
D: well there isnt a d that i can think of.

Alright, so thats where it is now and shes running beautifully, until next time i start it and dont have a choke, so? i dont know just tell me what you think.

And then again, maybe not.


Reason for my statement has to do with changing the information you're already working with. To a lesser extent, you don't know what setting is best for your combo.


Yes.


Typical "Ricer reaction". It needs to be reconnected so you can see what the problem is.


More hassle than repairing what you have, and you won't learn anything by adding more aftermarket parts.



Yeah, that's the ticket, get a Qjet or AFB and start telling everyone Holly carbs are POS.


Looks like he knows more about your car than I do. You should be talking to him instead of posting here.


Sounds like you're good to go.


Most important is, what does that "guy" think?

Norm