Hi srh222, All,
srh222 wrote:
........got an alternator belt hopping around and i do not know how to tighten it ........
Should have been first on your list. Fix it, if you haven't already. When you do, tell us, so we can eliminate it from the many possibilities.
Loose alternator belt will cause a low battery, which can, in turn, mimic a worn out starter. Did you test the starter before you replaced it?
Loose water pump belt can cause the same overheating symptoms you've been observing.
New V belts need readjustment a week or two after installation.
srh222 wrote:
........ I know i need coolant flush ........
Start it cold with the cap off. Observe the action of the coolant after the stat has begun to open. Should be obvious whether it's circulating or not.
srh222 wrote:
........ I might go let it run with thermo housing cap off for 5 minutes or so to see if any air burps out ........
If it does, you have a major problem. Due to the design of the system, air cannot be trapped inside once the coolant is circulating properly.
andrewk wrote:
........ Your car is overheating ........
Do we know that?
88 Coupe wrote:
88delta88 wrote:
........ I am not sure how to verify the temp guage is telling the truth ........
Cooking thermometer.
An inexpensive (free, if you have a cook in the house) diagnostic tool that can aid in finding your actual coolant temp. Either digital or analog will do the job.
Also handy for testing thermostats and temp switches. Best used in conjuntion with a pan of water on a kitchen stove.
andrewk wrote:
........ In summary, We have verified that all components, except the radiator are in good condition. We have a new waterpump and thermostat, and good belt and hoses. Coolant is in good condition ........
Odds are, a new part is good, but that does not eliminate the need to test it as part of the troubleshooting process. When it leads one to a new part, it's not a waste of time to check it anyway.
andrewk wrote:
........ Pressure testing the radiator won't prove that it isnt clogged, just that it holds pressure, which a clog would do ........
Exactly, a pressure test is to find out if it leaks. Nothing else.
Observing a lower hose collapse at 2000 RPM or more would be a sign of a weak hose, a clogged radiator or possibly both. It would, however, show the pump to be in good working order.
andrewk wrote:
........ You can take your lower and upper hoses off, and flush the radiator, without the risk of losing gaskets ........
I don't see any way to harm gaskets by flushing the whole system, including the heater.
andrewk wrote:
........ bleeding the system should be the first step ........
Are we talking about cooling systems? Is that a normal procedure? Only references to it, I'm aware of, have been on the Internet. Come to think of it, they have all been on ROP.
Of course, being a kid and all, I don't know a helluva lot.
andrewk wrote:
........ Systematic diagnosis should be done on a "most likely" scale. What is more likely in this case, a plugged radiator, or air in the system? ........
Not enough information, for me to agree, or disagree on the plugged radiator. All we have is his statement that it needs flushed, and we don't know what it's based on. He says below he has no problems running at 70 MPH, so that would indicate the radiator is not clogged. May or may not make a difference that it was at night, depending where he's located.
Why are we to believe there might be air in his system? I don't believe it because I don't think it's possible.
srh222 wrote:
........ had it out Tuesday night and no problems running 70 mph. ........
Does that mean the problem is gone, or, that it wasn't there at that time and place?
srh222 wrote:
........ If car got to 220 the fan should have kicked on ........
Do you know, for sure, if the temp was actually at 220? Do you know what the switching temp is supposed to be?
srh222 wrote:
........ Both rad hoses are hot ........
I'm not surprised, 160 would feel hot to the touch. Question is, what were the numbers?
srh222 wrote:
........ So does this mean coolant temp sensor faulty not allowing fan to turn on thus coolant reaching boiling point and leaving the overflow? ........
Impossible to answer without more information than I have. Without any numbers, you are assuming (possibly incorrectly) that the coolant is boiling.
srh222 wrote:
........ Checked fan by jumping A B terminals for codes and it turned fan on. So im going with coolant sensor ........
srh222 wrote:
........ the sensor has been tested w a meter and that checked out ........
You checked the sensor and it was good. But because the fan works when you bypass it, you want to replace it?
Then again, maybe I missed something.
Regards, Norm