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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 2:52 pm 
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Hey guys, I know I've been saying I was going to do it for about two years, and I finally came across a deal I couldn't pass up.

I picked up a running Oldsmobile 350 and TH350 out a 1972 Cutlass S, each with 80k miles. I drove around with it for minute or so while it was still in the '72 car. Trans shifted great, but the fluid was tan-brown, so it will be serviced while it's out of the car.

Number off the block is 35558 2, number on the heads is 7.

Some pics while it's still in the 72 car.

Image
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I know the motor has #7 heads, original 2bbl carb. and plastic timing gears & chain ( ?? the hell where they thinking ? ).

Anyway, I'm looking to do some modest performance upgrades while she's out of the car.

It's getting Edelbrock steel timing gears + chain, and the points ignition will be replaced with the HEI off my 260.

I was thinking about the following, but would love to hear your ideas;
Headers to replace the original manifolds
Edelbrock intake
Edelbrock 4 bbl carburetor
Larger diameter, custom exhaust
Shift kit for the transmission

Goal for the motor is 200 - 300 horsepower range. I'd like it to be something that will make the guy in the Civic next to me feel inadequate. :D



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1979 Cutlass Calais - Rolling Restoration & WIP Hurst/Olds tribute (50% complete)
Oldsmobile 350 & TH350
Custom 3" exhaust W/ Flowmaster Delta 40
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:15 pm 
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DarkFox wrote:
........ Number off the block is 35558 2 ........

395558 2? If so, a 350 block, used from '68-'76.

DarkFox wrote:
........ number on the heads is 7 ........

7A? #7 were used in '71. 7A in '72.

DarkFox wrote:
........ plastic timing gears & chain ........

Iron gears with plastic coated gears & steel chain. Plastic gears were common from the '20s into the '50s.

DarkFox wrote:
........ ( ?? the hell where they thinking ? ) ........

Quieter operation.

DarkFox wrote:
........ ignition will be replaced with the HEI off my 260 ........

Change the advance "curve" to match the engine it will be used in.

DarkFox wrote:
........ I'd like it to be something that will make the guy in the Civic next to me feel inadequate.

Change the rear end gears. Far more "bang for the buck".

Norm



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:34 pm 
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That's definitely something I'm going to consider, but I'm still looking to do some motor work while it's going to be easier.

What's your opinion on replacing the exhaust manifolds with decent headers, and a new intake & carb. ?

I figure I might as well do it now, while it's out on the engine stand, and easy to work on.



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1979 Cutlass Calais - Rolling Restoration & WIP Hurst/Olds tribute (50% complete)
Oldsmobile 350 & TH350
Custom 3" exhaust W/ Flowmaster Delta 40
K&N filters
Dual 600 watt amplifier
2x 12" MTX Jackhammer subwoofers
25" I-INC flatpanel display
Xbox 360 gaming system
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 7:31 pm 
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DarkFox wrote:
........ headers ........

An efficient exhaust system works well in the higher RPM. During normal driving, manifolds with duals work just as well.

To that end, headers and an efficient exhaust system would work better with more cam and compression.

DarkFox wrote:
........ new intake & carb ........

Try to find a stock manifold and Q-Jet. They will work just as well as the aftermarket stuff, although, the aluminum manifold will be a few pounds lighter.

All of the above will compliment a rear gear change, but will not begin to compensate for one.

Having said that, your external add-ons will impress bystanders whenever the hood is up.

Norm



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:23 am 
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Since it's going to be in the shop, might as well go all out and do the rear too.

Can you tell me what ratio the car has, and what you would recommend changing it to?

Thanks!



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1979 Cutlass Calais - Rolling Restoration & WIP Hurst/Olds tribute (50% complete)
Oldsmobile 350 & TH350
Custom 3" exhaust W/ Flowmaster Delta 40
K&N filters
Dual 600 watt amplifier
2x 12" MTX Jackhammer subwoofers
25" I-INC flatpanel display
Xbox 360 gaming system
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 6:05 am 
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DarkFox wrote:
........ Can you tell me what ratio the car has ........

Probably 2.5 or so.

I would pull the cover and count the teeth on the gears. You can check the tooth count that should be stamped on the outer edge of the ring gear.

Or, not as accurate unless it has the same ratio that came in the housing, you can look here to find the codes, and here for the definitions.

Quote:
........ what you would recommend changing it to?

I have been using 3.91:1 gears and 28" tires, but my 425 is perfectly happy at 3200 RPM on the highway.

How often (and for how long) do you travel on the highway, and how much loss in fuel mileage can you handle?

Norm.



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 6:19 pm 
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I don't travel often with it on the highway.

If it helps, I bought the car three years ago with 83k miles, it now has 86,700 on it.

When I do, it's maybe once a month, for about 2 hours tops.

I take it out for local shows, and to cruise around with on nice days.

My goal is to be able to smoke the riced-out VW jetta or Honda civic at the traffic light / straightaway. Fuel economy could be 8-10+ mpg and I wouldn't mind.

On a semi-related note to this topic, I took the transmission in for servicing and upgrades today. It's had a cracked pump, and is getting a stage 2 shift kit.



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1979 Cutlass Calais - Rolling Restoration & WIP Hurst/Olds tribute (50% complete)
Oldsmobile 350 & TH350
Custom 3" exhaust W/ Flowmaster Delta 40
K&N filters
Dual 600 watt amplifier
2x 12" MTX Jackhammer subwoofers
25" I-INC flatpanel display
Xbox 360 gaming system
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 11:07 pm 
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Progress!
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1979 Cutlass Calais - Rolling Restoration & WIP Hurst/Olds tribute (50% complete)
Oldsmobile 350 & TH350
Custom 3" exhaust W/ Flowmaster Delta 40
K&N filters
Dual 600 watt amplifier
2x 12" MTX Jackhammer subwoofers
25" I-INC flatpanel display
Xbox 360 gaming system
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 12:29 pm 
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88 Coupe wrote:
DarkFox wrote:
........ and what you would recommend changing it to?
How often (and for how long) do you travel on the highway, and how much loss in fuel mileage can you handle?
DarkFox wrote:
I don't travel often with it on the highway ......... When I do, it's maybe once a month, for about 2 hours tops .........

Depending on your tire size, 3.5 to 3.7 (along with a limited slip differential) should be about right for your application.

DarkFox wrote:
........ and is getting a stage 2 shift kit.

"Stage 1" would have been a better choice.

Norm



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 6:36 pm 
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Norm,

Welcome back. It's been awfully quiet around here!

Do you find the "stage 2" to be too harsh, or is there another reason that the "stage 1" or "RV" (as B&M likes to call it) is better?

Regards,
Andrew



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 1:07 pm 
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Quote:
Welcome back ........

Thanks.

"Shift kits" exist for one reason:
To minimize slippage in order to prolong the life of the trans.

Quote:
........ Do you find the "stage 2" to be too harsh ........

It can be, depending on the rest of the combination. If line pressures are higher than needed they can cause undue wear on trans internals, and unnecessary shocks to the rest of the drivetrain, without making the car go any faster/quicker. Higher pressures at the pump also contribute to power loss.

Quote:
........ is there another reason that the "stage 1" or "RV" (as B&M likes to call it) is better?

At this power level, a basic kit is more than up to the job, whether it used behind a "street/strip" 350 or a 455 Olds powered motorhome.

Norm



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