Not so sure what's wrong but I do believe its the carb. When I first start the engine it'll turn over several times and then die out, so I have to give it a little gas and start it again. And then when it is warmed up and I am sitting at a light, once green, I have to slowly accelerate, because if I give it too much gas, the engine just stops running, but if I let go of the gas immediately its fine, and I got to accelerate slowly. And sometimes when going from a dead stop when I hit the gas it sounds like backfiring but its coming from the carb, not the exhaust. Also I have no choke, the previous owner was a mickey mouse mechanic.

If I had to guess, the bog may be due to an acclerator pump leaking, and if you have no choke, thats definately why it wont start well in the morning.

Andrew

Good guess.

I would add to that guess, that the problem did not appear until the winter weather set in.

Do a complete tune up, as per the FSM

Does it still have the Q jet, or did the PO replace it with a Holley or AFB?

Norm

well I really didnt get to drive it around till the winter, but the bogging has been there since I bought it in July. When I got it I changed the oil, water pump, Bosch platinum +2 spark plugs and wires. Is there a PCV valve? That book looks pretty interesting, might have to get one, thx for the tip. The carb is the stock Q jet.

How can I troubleshoot the accelarator pump?

An important part of the puzzle.


Could be part of your problem.


Yes. Checking its condition, is part of the normal tuneup/maintenance schedule.


In it, you will find the maintenance schedule for your car, along with pictures and step by step "how to" instructions.


You might?

It "might" be the most important tool you will ever own.


Another important piece of the puzzle.



We are looking at it from the left front of the car. It is coincidence, that the example has no choke.






With the engine off:

Remove the air cleaner.

Find the point where the cable from the pedal, attaches to the carb. It is at the bottom, center, left (#2) of the carb.

Move the top of that lever toward the rear of the car, while watching for any movement at the top left (#2) of the carb.

If you see the lever move, it should be pushing the pump (the far left of #2) downward.

If the pump moves, look (using a flashlight) straight down into the carb thru the air horn (#3) while moving the lever again.

You should see 2 small streams of fuel, one on each side, pizzing into the intake manifold.

If both streams are there, change the location of the linkage on the pump arm to the other (at the right of #2) hole.

Recheck, and note any difference in the streams.

Report back.

FYI: All of the above information is also included in the FSM.

Norm

How so? Should I just use OEM spark plugs?


Find the point where the cable from the pedal, attaches to the carb. It is at the bottom, center, left (#2) of the carb.

Do you mean #1?

well, did what you said, nothing out of the ordinary. When i pressed it back and looked inside I did see two streams of gas pizzing, smoked a little after it came shooting out. And I can't replace the lever, no second hole.



The carb is looking pretty messy, like a busted gasket? Is there a gasket there, and could that cause a big problem?



Here's the side I was fixing, still missing the sidemarkers, but looks better then when I bought it.

Yikes, your accel pump, among other things is leaking badly! That could be a fire watitng to happen.

Also you have a choke, it just isnt hooked up properly.

Andrew

Is a rebuild necessary?

Plugs other than OEM, have not always "played well" with earlier computers such as yours. In addition, Bosch does not enjoy the best reputation in areas where it is not an OEM application.


You have already spent the money. If they are not shown to be a problem, use them until they wear out, then change to the correct AC plugs.


Yes. Just checking to see if you are paying attention.

Norm

I did not write the part about "with the engine off" just to waste all that "time" I have on my hands.

You are lucky it did not "sneeze" while your face was in the line of fire.

Yes, fire.


Looks like should, after it has been used. Its appearance has nothing to do with your problem(s).


No.


Yes, and no.

Norm

Shouldn't we identify the disease, before we choose the cure?

Norm

I see nothing but the normal seepage that occurs over time. Risk of fire is almost zero without the air cleaner. Nonexistent as long as it is in place.


Looks like it is hooked up, but not adjusted. We will get to it after we deal with the real problems.

Do you see anything else that could be a problem?

Norm

GraveReaper0,

Thanks for posting the pics. In this case, it's like diagnosing it in person.

A ¾ and side view of the right side would be very helpful.

Norm.

The secondaries are blocked open, and I may be mistaken, but is there no bolt in the rear of the carb on that side?

I never had a carb that had that much seepage, but the more you experience, the more you learn.

Since this is a CCC car, I would wonder what that green plug goes to, and if it has anything to do with the problem. However, I see the carb is plugged in, so its likely not the case.

Andrew