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warranty???...chrome lugnuts????...why would any other type void the warranty?..if thats true then thats a crock..and i wont buy AR rims because thats the most retarded thing ive ever heard. its a scam...unless it has something to do with the way they seat themselves in the rim. its like the difference between steel and aluminum wheel lugnuts. You cant use the steel rim lugs on the aluminum because of the hardness of the metal used in the different lugnuts.
Lets address this first:
Nearly ALL aftermarket wheel manufacturers specify a certain type of lugnut for their particular wheels...not doing so WILL generally void the wheel warranty, and heres why....
Most aftermarket wheels have a different lugnut seat or taper, than a standard steel or stock type aluminum wheel. In many cases useage of the incorrect lugnuts can cause wheel failure due to improper seating of lugnuts, wheels coming loose, cracking in the lugnut seats, etc. Lugnut hardness itself has little effect..most lugnuts are of the same grade or hardness. Its in the type of seat designed into the lugnut itself...taper, ball seat, mag type...each has it's own useage and place on a particular type of wheel, whether it is steel or aluminum.
Also, although you will find the same grade of hardness in the lugnut itself, the quality of the outer coating is another thing....many of the "cheaper" grade generic chrome lugnuts have a single layer chrome plating, which over time will rust, corrode, and basically look like shit. Higher grade lugnuts, such as ones made by McGard and other well known reputable brands, are triple nickel chrome plated, and carry a lifetime guarantee against chipping or rusting. The nickel plating helps to prevent this sort of thing. Generally they cost MUCH more than the cheaper grade (often $1.50-2.50 per lugnut more) BUT how much do you value your car, your wheels, how they look, and how long they last? As always, you get what you pay for.
Now, to the other half of the question...American Racing, as well as other wheel and lugnut companies, make thin wall sockets specifically for use with thinwall type lugnut holes on aftermarket wheels. Most come with both a 3/4" and 13/16" hex built into the top for useage with either size wrench. As others have mentioned, deep well thin wall sockets will work as well. Lugnut torque varies with each manufacturers vehicles, but all aluminum/aftermarket wheels should be torqued in a star type pattern on 5 bolt wheels, and then retorqued after approximately 500 miles of use, to full seat the wheels and lugnuts. "Most" of the GM cars specify 85-100 ft lbs of torque, but check to be certain. Correct lugnut torque will also result in less problems with brake rotor warpage, which is VERY common on newer style "slip on" rotor type of vehicles.
Now, since Brando mentioned it.....torque extensions, or torque sticks. While they can be useful in torquing lugnuts quickly, in most cases the best they will do unless used on a fully regulated air supply, is to torque each lugnut the same, but not necessarily to the correct torque, and even at that must be used in a specific manner. Torque sticks are only to be used to torque the wheels AFTER the lugnuts have been fully seated against the wheel....simply sticking them on an impact wrench and tightening till they stop will almost always result in an overtorque scenario. While we do use torque sticks at our establishment, all employees have been instructed and trained in the proper useage of torque sticks, and even then, EVERY aftermarket wheel which comes in is hand torqued to vehicle specs.
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Shawn's Auto Repair and Performance, SW Wis.
www.shawnsautorepair.procarcarezone.com
69 Olds Cutlass S
70 Olds Vista Cruiser Wagon
72 Olds Cutlass S, 12:1 470 stroker, JM40 solid lifter cam, TH400, 3500 10" PTC stall, 4.11 posi
74 442 455/TH350
79 Cutlass 455/TH375 sleeper
'97 GMC Sierra Ext Cab 9" lift w/ 37's
LOL
