First: Fix all current problems.

Second: Everything having anything to do with reliability, including, all mechanicals, like engine, cooling system, belts, trans, and brakes, should be put into top shape. You might be very surprised how well it runs when properly maintained.

Third: Regular upkeep and maintenance.

Last: Performance/appearance mods.

Norm

Hi all,

I must say, you need to give the car a tuneup before you try to modify it at all. Your problem of overheating is not at all related to fans. You have a problem with coolant flow, as Norm pointed out earlier. Fix whats wrong before you come up with creative ways to make it work "better"

Workin on that, gotta do that with money and time both of which i dont got.

Whats been done since i bought it in March.
Plugs, wires, PCV, air filter, crankcase breather, O2 sensor, all new exhaust from exhaust manifold back including the gasket and springs at the manifold, this includes the cat and muffler, new valve cover gasket, water pump, all 3 belts, starter, front rotors and pads, right rear brake line, fuel filter,overflow vent hose, thermostat, thermostat housing cap, radiator cap, oil change (two times one time with ATF), 4 brand new tires.

What could be fixed due to age according to mechanic but is ok are the front flex lines and rear shocks are rusty. I know i need coolant flush i think i said that about 4 times up there already. With that im replacling the radiator hoses, the heater hoses, and the hose from overflow to radiator. After that rear shocks, oil pressure switch, front flex lines, trans flush.

is your rad plugged or something?

I dont know. I do not believe so because here is the deal. I had it in for the starter and he did a pressure test on it for me. It held 15lbs for over 30 minutes then he released it, no leaks, no overflow issues, nothing. So im kinda stumped because i have "pushed" out some antifreeze since the pressure test. I have no idea what to do beyond doing the coolant flush and what the mechanic said to me was i could do that but then i could risk losing gaskets because he said the flush is pretty good and it tends to do that on old cars. Him and i want to go in direction of replacing the hoses upper lower heater for maintenance issues but they all checked out. I might go let it run with thermo housing cap off for 5 minutes or so to see if any air burps out but i do not know.

Sorry for long response time didnt get a notification.

Well, lets look at this systematically.

First, we have a problem. Your car is overheating. So first system to be scrutinized is the cooling system. Examining the condition of all hoses, belts, and fluids is a must and has been done. So we have verified that the coolant is of good quality, and that the hoses are good. Next we have the thermostat. This has been replaced. Assuming that "New=Good" we can rule this out, since the car seems to run ok in town, right?

In summary, We have verified that all components, except the radiator are in good condition. We have a new waterpump and thermostat, and good belt and hoses. Coolant is in good condition. Pressure testing the radiator wont prove that it isnt clogged, just that it holds pressure, which a clog would do. You can take your lower and upper hoses off, and flush the radiator, without the risk of losing gaskets, although I believe that a low pressure flush would not cause such a problem.

So where to go from here? We still have a problem. I would flush the radiator, and possible have it checked out by a shop to verify its condition. Something is wrong if the car is overheating. However, thinking about this more, I think bleeding the system should be the first step. Systematic diagnosis should be done on a "most likely" scale. What is more likely in this case, a plugged radiator, or air in the system? Go with the simple stuff, so you spend as little as possible.

Thanks for reading my book...

Andrew

No problem reading your book. It makes sense.Yeh and it only seems to do it on the highway after running for a long time. I had it out Tuesday night and no problems running 70 mph.

Ok i did a test about 30 mins ago. Went down added coolant to compensate for what was purged. Turned car on let idle, temp reached 180 then rose to 220 here is what i wanted to see. If car got to 220 the fan should have kicked on. It did not so i gave it a little gas to see if maybe reving the motor had any impact on fan, no the temp climbed to about 230 no fan turning on. Both rad hoses are hot. So does this mean coolant temp sensor faulty not allowing fan to turn on thus coolant reaching boiling point and leaving the overflow?

Ok ran test light on coolant sensor with key to on position no power there. Ran a jumper there nothing. Checked fan by jumping A B terminals for codes and it turned fan on. So im going with coolant sensor.

Hi srh222, All,


Should have been first on your list. Fix it, if you haven't already. When you do, tell us, so we can eliminate it from the many possibilities.

Loose alternator belt will cause a low battery, which can, in turn, mimic a worn out starter. Did you test the starter before you replaced it?

Loose water pump belt can cause the same overheating symptoms you've been observing.

New V belts need readjustment a week or two after installation.


Start it cold with the cap off. Observe the action of the coolant after the stat has begun to open. Should be obvious whether it's circulating or not.


If it does, you have a major problem. Due to the design of the system, air cannot be trapped inside once the coolant is circulating properly.


Do we know that?





An inexpensive (free, if you have a cook in the house) diagnostic tool that can aid in finding your actual coolant temp. Either digital or analog will do the job.

Also handy for testing thermostats and temp switches. Best used in conjuntion with a pan of water on a kitchen stove.


Odds are, a new part is good, but that does not eliminate the need to test it as part of the troubleshooting process. When it leads one to a new part, it's not a waste of time to check it anyway.


Exactly, a pressure test is to find out if it leaks. Nothing else.

Observing a lower hose collapse at 2000 RPM or more would be a sign of a weak hose, a clogged radiator or possibly both. It would, however, show the pump to be in good working order.


I don't see any way to harm gaskets by flushing the whole system, including the heater.


Are we talking about cooling systems? Is that a normal procedure? Only references to it, I'm aware of, have been on the Internet. Come to think of it, they have all been on ROP.

Of course, being a kid and all, I don't know a helluva lot.


Not enough information, for me to agree, or disagree on the plugged radiator. All we have is his statement that it needs flushed, and we don't know what it's based on. He says below he has no problems running at 70 MPH, so that would indicate the radiator is not clogged. May or may not make a difference that it was at night, depending where he's located.

Why are we to believe there might be air in his system? I don't believe it because I don't think it's possible.


Does that mean the problem is gone, or, that it wasn't there at that time and place?


Do you know, for sure, if the temp was actually at 220? Do you know what the switching temp is supposed to be?


I'm not surprised, 160 would feel hot to the touch. Question is, what were the numbers?


Impossible to answer without more information than I have. Without any numbers, you are assuming (possibly incorrectly) that the coolant is boiling.


You checked the sensor and it was good. But because the fan works when you bypass it, you want to replace it?

Then again, maybe I missed something.

Regards, Norm

Hi Norm, all,

.

Before I had internet access, this is what I was taught. I think it was by my Auto-Tech teacher, but it could have very well been my Dad.



And thinking about it more, I can remember someone telling me at one point that "bleeding" the system won't help. And knowing what I know now, I think that is correct. Since the system is under pressure, it will force all the air in to one location, the radiator.

Good post Norm.

Andrew

Well the belts have been readjusted. The starter totally crapped out on me it just clicked. Checked with thermo housing cap off and air bubbles popped out after a couple minutes. The other night i had no problems running at 70 and neither today. I think i might have answered all ?s.