DarkFox wrote:
........ or how to figure out for sure by myself ........
http://www.maliburacing.com/auto_tranny_id.htmDarkFox wrote:
........ what make/model/year/etc 350 inch engines will drop right in to my car .........
Any Olds V8, from '64 to '90 (excluding 394) is a direct bolt in. That includes 260, 307, 330, 350, 400, 403, and 455.
DarkFox wrote:
........ Will my current transmission be able to handle the power ........
Depends on its condition and how hard you "beat" on it. It can easily be rebuilt to handle far higher power levels.
DarkFox wrote:
........ If not, what kind of transmission ........
TH400 (came mostly with 455s), but the drive shaft must shortened and the yoke changed. Far more "beef" (not to mention the extra weight and power consumption) than you will ever need.
DarkFox wrote:
........ aftermarket camshaft be desirable? ........
It would. Which one, would depend on a lot of factors.
DarkFox wrote:
........ What would I expect to see ........
Ideally, a loss in power below 2500 RPM, a larger gain above it, and "peak" Torque/HP at a higher RPM.
DarkFox wrote:
........a "rougher/more aggressive" idle ........
This is the part that separates the men from the boys.
The "sound" you are looking for, is associated with high performance (racing) engines for good reason. It does not all come from the cam itself, but from the combination of parts that makes the power increases. "Enough cam" in an otherwise "stock" engine, to approximate the "sound" will not show a significant power gain.
What can be gained by "talking the talk" if one is unable to "walk the walk"?
DarkFox wrote:
........The only reason I'm considering it now, it would be cheaper & make more sense to put it in before the motor went in the car ........
Cam change is a simple process.
DarkFox wrote:
........ What should I be looking for and checking when I'm buying a complete, but used motor? ........
That it "don't leak, don't smoke, and fires on all 8" cylinders. If you cannot drive the car, before it is removed, you are gambling.
DarkFox wrote:
........ Compression ........
If it can be checked accurately (engine at normal operating temperature) it would be helpful. Engine vacuum (also at normal operating temp) would be very desirable.
DarkFox wrote:
........ mileage ........
Mileage numbers can be (and, often are) deceiving.
Having said (all) that:
1.If you are going to keep the car, I suggest you acquire a 350 ( or 403 or 455) core. From there, you can do a "proper" rebuild using the specifications that will best match your goals.
2. Leave it like it is, until you have the resources to do it right.
3. Put a used 403 or 455 in it, as is, until you are able to do it right.
4. Or, you could leave the engine alone, and change the rear end ratio. You might think you added 50 HP to the engine.
One more thing to be aware of:
Considering the recent changes in our political climate, there is a real possibility that emissions testing might return. A 350 that meets '79 Federal standards for your 260 would make it a non-issue.
Norm
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