I'm posting this for a friend who had work done to her car, and is questioning the work done.

1995 Honda Accord EX, V6 4 speed automatic.

While driving the car home, it suddenly began to shake and run very rough. No check engine light came on, but the car was shacking violently, the tach showed RPMs fluctuating rapidly between 0 and 2000 while idling. There was no smoke or leaks that could be seen. The car had 1/2 tank of gas, and outside of a timing chain/water pump repair last summer has had no known prior problems.

The car was towed to a repair station, where it would not start. Over the course of 6 weeks the car was looked over. The following items were replaced:

Coil, Ignition switch, computer, camshaft sensor assembly, and an oil change + tune up.

Here is where the problem begins:
1. It took over 6 weeks to repair yet on 15 hours i labor was used.

2. The car still isnt right, the transmission shifts strangely, there is a noise comming from the belt area (they replaced the belt) that sounds like a "woooo woooo woooo".

3.The car is very sluggish (this car has the V6, yet feels slower then my 92hp Ciera, I have driven this car prior and it had plenty of power)

Any ideas as to what the problem could still be, what may have caused it, and if the mechanics seem to have done the right thing?

The whistles go !!!

But that's only in the mornin- You oughta be up cookin breakfast for someone!

Anyway, in all seriousness-

It sounds like a timing issue to me, and it sounds like the shop didn't have a clue as to what was going on. The first thing an incompetent technician will come up with is the computer. They don't see an obvious flaw, so it must be that magical box.

Cam sensor would throw a code. If the coil failed a resistance check, that would be sound cause to replace it, not sure what you would find wrong with the ignition switch that would cause that problem.

The whistling sound could be an improperly set timing belt tensioner-

Best thing I can tell you to do is to verify that the work done thus far is correct. Depending on your skill, that may mean taking it to a (different) shop.

Sorry this isn't much help, but I hope this is at least of some help-

Andrew

doesnt that car have a MAF? You could try cleaning it if your really careful. Ive heard horror storys about MAFs getting dirty, performing like crap and not throwing a code.

This is the same shop that did the timing chain, after I drove the car, my dad took it out and also noted the sluggishness. The car still idles a little rough. The timing maybe be something of interest.

Thanks for the quick responses!!!!!!!!!

If there is anything else I should check and report back on let me know so I can do so!

I want to give as much info as possible so here is what the repair sheet says

"Oil change/lube/filter

Labor to check sputters/no power and no start. Check fuel pressure (ok). Check fuel for contamination (ok).

Check ignition system and wiring in system. Electrical portion of ignition switch blown- remove and replace.

Ignition coil and camshaft assembly have malfunctions. Disassemble parts as needed, remove and replace coil and camshaft assembly, reinstall parts.

Problem no solved (vehicle would only operate in reverse on ly) Check wiring to ecm-back probe harness. Check for resistance and chafing (wiring ok) Replace ecm with used ecm.

Vehicle ok at this time."

So i can understand this, what is a camshaft sensor assembly, is that the same thing as the camshaft position sensor?

That is the only type of camshaft sensor that I know of, so I think it is safe to assume that it is a cam position sensor.

The car does start now? Does it idle ok now?

Thanks for the additional information. I may have been wrong about the shop's competence. However, it would be helpful for you to know what the "malfunctions" were in those two items, so you know what you paid them to do.

It seems to me they did everything but check fuel delivery. Pressure is only half the system. I am not familiar with Honda's EFI setup, but a bad injector would certainly make the car sluggish, but I also believe that you would notice the absence of a cylinder not firing. That is, if it will even run with a bad injector. Some will start, some do not, it all depends on how they are wired.

It's tough to say exactly what has happened here, but it can be figured out with some good old fashioned systematic diagnosis.

We need 5 things for the engine to run properly, at least at a very basic level. Fuel, Compression, Spark, correct valve/spark timing, and Air. Now, if the car runs great at idle, we know we are getting these five things, at least at idle. What we need to figure out is what we are losing when you apply throttle.

The best thing we can do in this situation is assume nothing. So let's start with the basics.

First thing I would do is make sure the air filter was indeed replaced, and make sure it is clean, and not restricted. and check for tears and/or restrictions in the hose that goes from the air box to the throttle body. If the car has a MAF, it would be good to look at it to make sure the screen is not plugged.

If you have changed anything, test the car, and note any changes in performance. Assuming that the car shows no signs of improvement, the next place to check is the spark plugs.

You will be able to tell if the plug is getting fuel and firing just by looking at it. There are many good guides out there for reading plugs, but a general rule of thumb is you want a tan-ish colored porcelin and no signs of major carbon fouling. If the plug is wet with fuel, you know that its cylinder is getting fuel, but not spark. If the plug looks overheated, this may be a sign of spark, but no fuel.

If the plugs check out, you are more than likely dealing with a timing problem.

I hope I haven't missed anything, but if I have, I am sure someone will set the record straight-

Andrew

The car does idle a little rough, it has new plugs and wires (part of the tune up) I'll double check everything in the daylight. As far as the timing issue:

The car had one timing chain from the Honda dealership about 2 years ago. About 1 year ago the waterpump went, so the timing chain was replaced at the same time again (I found this to be odd since the chain was brand new).
Then last summer the new waterpump went and when it was replaced the timing chain was replaced again. This car has had 3 timing chains in 3 years, I've never heard of such a thing, and the 1st replacement was the only time where it was the problem with the car.

Ive heard of a bad knock sensor causing similar problems, If at all possible get the shop to test drive the car with a scanner hooked up so they can view all the vitals.

me either, i hope it diddnt come from her pocket!

Yes she did