I have the Holly SA and it says you can get either 6% more accelleration or 5% more gas milage. so where is it that u adjust to do this, is it the float level adjusters? im guessing, but i dont want to mess it up.

Hi c_creations, hello everyone,

I can't help you , DrJay said I only have experience with a 350 CHev.



Compared to what, and under what circumstances? The carb is only a small part part it, and a simple screw adjustment will not get you more power.


Under normal circumstances, the factory adjustments never need to be changed.

Looks like you're posting different parts of the same question all over the board.

Before you do anything, you need to make a plan. Individual parts don't do much. Everything you do and add, must work together like a team. You might already have mods that are fighting each other.

Post everything you have in one thread and call it something like "How can I get the most out of my 350 G body".

Then post answers to these:

How fast do you want to go?
What's your budget and knowledge/experience level?
In detail, what has already been done to the car?

The more accurate the information you post, the better your plan will be.

Regards, Norm

I want it to drag, im not sure about the engine, but the engine has been rebuilt and has a mild cam in it and is pushing about 350 hp. it has i think a 670 cfm street avenger on it. its not up to its full potential, that i know. im not sure what heads it has probably stock. im not looking for gas milage. just looking for speed. my budget is what ever it takes, it just might take longer if its more money. you know? so the selling point on the carb says that and it has two fuel intakes on it. a primary and a secondary. thats why i was wondering if it had to do with the float adjustments.

Hi c_creations, all,


14 seconds? 13 seconds? 12? 11? 10? 9? 8?

You tell me how quick you want to be, and we'll go from there.


In order for someone to know it makes 350 HP, he would have been able to tell you what cam and what specs the shop used.


Need to do better that “I thinkâ€

Hi c_creations, All


Googled the avenger.
No different than any of my Holleys other than it comes with some accessories I bought separately.

Page 11 and 12 of your manual starting with: VACUUM OPERATED SECONDARY THROTTLES:

It can be found here.

Regards, Norm

alright here we go. fast enough to win in my class, which would be pry around 12's. As i think i might have to by some spray.

Well the guy bought it as a 350hp engine. but was never aware of what it had, which sucks because if i run spray, i will have to break it down to double check. Grrr.

where on the carb would it say the serial number or cfm size. i say 670 because of the hp the engine has.

theres a strip about an hour and a half away. that would tell me alot huh?

Ill get you a number of my head tomorrow. i have to work today soon here so i dont have time. sorry.

alright and then again about the carb. that will come later. Ill look at those pages. thanks



Thank you.
Josh

I checked the head number, but the only number i saw was a 5. is this right, or is there like a serial number. They intake on it is an Olds Performer 350.

Yea, the head on this are Number 5 heads. From what i read you can have them machined to be pretty good. Would it be worth it to have them port and polished and then have the intake brought up to a 2.00 and then the exaust to a 1.625 if it hasnt already?

Hi c_creations, All,


If you want to assume it is thirty over, you can call it a 355. It'll sound like you know more than the next guy.


The question cannot be answered without knowing the planned combo. Biggest factors are cam and compression, mostly cam.
When done right, headwork is expensive. You could do as you describe, and go slower.

First place to spend money: Buy a good tach, I use Autometer. Then a dialback timing light, I use a craftsman.

#5 heads are good and indicate you might have an early 350. If you actually have 350HP, the heads are at least port matched. If it’s bored .030 over, chances are you have less than stock compression, and depending on the pistons, maybe much less. Slim chance you'd get lucky and have a .010 overbore with stock pistons and the original compression.

As is, assuming 350 HP, a decent cam, and traction you should be in the mid 14s. Quicker if its already tuned.

Best guess at what you actually have will be learned by running it at your local strip. Lots of information in a timeslip.

For now, take it somewhere and do a burnout. Do not powerbrake it as it only kills the trans and shows everyone your carb is not right. At a dead stop, quickly floor it from a 700 RPM idle, then go back and see if both tire marks are the same length.

Tell us what happened.

First time out, my 3950# grey coupe was in the low 19s. It didn't get into the 11s overnight. It did not need all the aftermarket shit you've been asking about.

Every time I took it out, it told me what to do next.

I told you what to do first, let the car tell us what to do next.

You might think about continuing your education at your local strip instead of the local car show. Still quite a bit of BS, but much less than elsewhere.

First, go as a spectator for a couple of T & T sessions. You’ll be surprised how much you can learn. Just remember to talk about his car, not yours.

You also might consider, not listening to anyone that cannot produce a 13 sec or better timeslip.

Regards, Norm

Thanks, Yea theres a test and tune in april at our strip, i guess thats when everyone is getting ready to race. U mentioned something about powerbreaking shows that your carb is wrong? how so, never knew that, Yea i have monster tach in there. It doesnt burn out off the line, i need to get like a 2500 stall torque converter, it dogs off the line and that should get a better take off. I guess i was just getting ahead of my self. I cant wait to take her to the track tho. ive already kinda got a time and it is a 14 sec car. maybe lower with the TC by a couple tenths.

Thanks.

Hi c_creations, All,

April is pretty far away.
Second choice, time only lane during eliminations.
Sturgis shows T&T Aug 20 and Oahe shows Aug 21. Nothing posted for Thunder Valley.


It shows the driver is compensating for a problem, most likely a carb stumble. There is also the possibility the driver is a rookie that hasn't a clue.

In the beginning, there were two reasons to powerbrake:
One, to load the suspension in order to cause intentional wheelspin (along with a loss of acceleration) to impress bystanders.
Two, to "band aid" the rich mixture that was thought to be needed back in the day.
Since then, many have followed the crowd that believes it helps to win races, but they are generally found on the street, not on strips.

Bottom line: the life of the trans is shortened for no reason.

In reality, flashing the TC hits the tires harder. Combine that with an unloaded suspension (as with a transbrake) for a better leave.
Traction and off idle response have to be there or it doesn't work.


Lots of stuff gets lost from one generation to the next. Do you hang with the wrong people?


Why a 6"tach? Eyesight problem? Mine are 3" and they work fine at eye level without blocking my vision, but none of mine are race cars.

Since you have a tach, the timing light is next. For what you are going to do, it has to be a "dial back". Something like this. I got mine at the local Sears store.

How you go about using it, depends whether you have the 350 points, or the 307 HEI distributor. HEI is partially done from the factory, but points dist is easier and can be made more accurate.


What is the idle in Park?


It's talking to you. Assuming 350 HP, 3.73, stock converter and tires, it should.
Good news: it might be a posi trying to turn both wheels.


Why a 2500? Why not a 2200? Or a 2800? Or a 3000? Or a 3500?


You were.


What does the rest of the timeslip say? There are seven numbers on it, each will help tell us what you have and where to go next.

My questions are to make you think. If you don't think, you don't learn.

For now, pull the cap off the dist and turn the rotor to the left. If it turns smoothly against the spring and returns completely, you've eliminated one reason why it doesn't spin tires from a stop.

Regards, Norm

my rear end is a posi. why would that eliminate a reason about the distributer. It has an HEI in it, Delco to be exact.

Hi c_creations, All

There would have been some very useful information in your answers to the above questions.


It's a quick and simple way to verify a power loss due to a malfunctioning distributor. More power = more wheelspin.


It can also be an indication of which mods might have already been done (or are needed) to match the advance curve to the rest of your combo.


R & R was to be covered during the dist rework, but, it appears you've found a better way to achieve your goal.

Good luck with your project.

Regards, Norm