hey, I was wondering what area Ineed to connect a tach, its the one with rpms, quarter mile, HP at the wheels, etc. if my car can't use it at least for a simple tach, but preferable the first one.

If it is HEI, there should be a "Tach" plug on the distributor cap.


Nevermind that, look here.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/det ... type=Alarm

Thats what a tach is.



Thats what the drag strip is for.



Thats what a chassis dyno is for.

Are you talking about one of those G-force things? If so, dont they do all that calculation without plugging into the cars wiring? I would follow whatever instructions came with the unit.

Welcome to TOC

Andrew

I know a tach is for RPMs but even just for a tach you need to attach it to some wiring, and I believe its the G-Force ones, I haven't gotten it yet just wondering if its possible. I know a little about my engine but not enough to make that call.

If it has a tachometer, then it will need to be hooked up the way the above link says. As for the rest of it, its all judged by an accelerometer in the unit itself, not by what the engine is actually doing. They are supposed to be fairly accurate, but I don't trust them. I'd prefer to have hard data.

Andrew

also just curious its off-topic of this topic but my engine is back firing, my friend told me its probably the timing, where is it located, I think its a chain but I'm not sure on that and I will be getting the chilton manual soon....just need the cash. Andrew, what else could I get other than using a dyno to give me those readings?

There is nothing to give dyno results with the cash you have on hand.

Do yourself a favor and get a Haynes manual for your car. About 15 bux in the US. Much more "User" friendly than Chiltons. And cheaper.

Find the cause of the backfire first. (Plug wires are notorious)

Get the car running right. Drive it. Don't worry about dynos yet.

Just my humble opinion.

And Welcome to TOC.

spark plugs and spark plug wires replaced a couple weeks ago, reason I think its the timing cause its a 20 year old car and the timing has never been touched, so its possible, also gas milage is down from what it use to be. oil needs changing as well.

A computer controlled engine with a distributor less ignition does not need its timing adjusted. Computer automatically does this for you for optimal performance.

so what could be the reason for the back firing?

This would be correct if it was a DIS system. The 2.5 has a distributor, which is where ignition to cam timing is controlled.

Timing just doesnt "go out". It could be a slipped timing chain, or it could also be a bad cap/rotor, or a multitude of other things. Cant tell over the internet as we can hear or see it.

Andrew

it only has a coil, no distributor cap.

Doesn't it have three coils? Are they all working?

Sorry didnt read the year of your car correctly. Thought it was pre-87.

Theres still a good chance that the timing chain is worn and has slipped, but without knowing the nature of the backfire, its still tough to tell.

Andrew

I bought the haynes manual and looking into it, I know I have a sticky valve, fuel injector is probably clogged (not fully of course), and it could be ignition timing.