I saw an advertisement on the show Trucks for Compcams, Stacey was saying they were good, so i check out there site didnt know theyd have a cam for my application. So now im thinking of getting a cam, they offer 4 different ones

(Advertised) (Valve lift)
In. Ex. in. ex.
Excellent torque. Good OEM replacement.
Good mileage and smooth idle. 240 248 .403 .403
Operating rpm range (800 to 4200)

Good power for light towing or use with
high axle ratios. Smooth idle. 252 252 .425 .425
Operating rpm range (1000 to 4800)

Ideal for towing. Strong mid-range power,
especially at highway speeds. 260 260 .456 .456
Operating rpm range (1400 to 5400)

Performance cam for the street.
Mild choppy idle. Likes lower gears 268 268 .469 .469
Operating rpm range (1800 to 5800)

Just lookin to get some more info about cams, wats the difference power wise would the 1st one offer the most torque and the 4th one the most hp? Im planning on supercharging it in the future so would that effect which cam i buy? Anybody replace there cam with an aftermarket one??

Installing an aftermarket cam can help engine performance but it must be the right one, you are right. Which one? that's another story. I think you would be better off asking this question over at ROP, although you might get into more than you bargained for, they get pretty deep over there. There are a lot of hardcore racers and engine builders over there.

I installed a cam built by Bullet Racing Cams in my 455 using the guidance of people over there and a guy named Harold. He used to have his own company (Ultradyne) building cams but now works for Lunati designing for them. You might be able to raise him over at ROP, he goes by the moniker UDHarold. If you change the cam you should consider a new timing chain and Definitely should change the lifters as well. Since you will have the intake manifold off to change the lifters you might look at the heads too. Depending on the condition of the springs and rockers you might want to consider those as well alhtough you would'nt HAVE TO do them I would think...

Really, unless some people over here chime in with some info you should go over to ROP on this question, probably even if they help you here.....

Sorry wats ROP?? Ya i was thinking about that, im not sure if my camshaft can come out with the engine in the car, if that is true i have alot of things i wanna change/replace while its out. Timing chain its new cause the engine was rebuilt about a year ago now, same with the lifters. But Comp Cams has 2 timing chains for my application and im thinking about changing it same for the lifters comp cams has that for my application and push rods. The srings and rockers are original they werent replaced at the rebuild, so that would have to be changed as well, though i know theres alotta different valve springs so that would be hard to decide as well.

Are you sure those cams aren't for the rear wheel drive version of the 3.8? 78-88 are the same years as the RWD version...

TOC Admin
Brando

Well they got cams specifically for the GN from 1977-1987 and 88-89 for the trans am 3.8L.

Than they got even fire 78-88
odd fire 62-67
odd fire 75-96

and it doesnt just say 231cu in (3.8L) it gives a range 181-252 for even
and 198-225 for odd(62-67)

odd fire(75-96) is only for 231

My engine falls under the 78-88 even fire

ROP is Realoldspower.com

If you change the cam you will HAVE to change the lifters, they wear directly on each other. On a FWD engine taking a cam out would be harder because it is transverse mounted. I forgot about that.

good luck

Thanks, i have to take a closer look when i go home. There just might be a drilled hole on the side where it could slide straight out. I wish i had bought this cam and gave it to the rebuilders along wit the lifters when it was out and getting built, so much more work now. Ah well it'll be worth it in the end.

u might be able to keep the engine in the car for that...if u took off the pass front wheel, removed the fenderwell liner..there might be enough room to do this..but dont quote me on that!..or u can just find a rotted out GN and yank the turboed 3.8 out and make the swap. there could be room for the intercooler on the rite side of the engine bay..maybe.

as was stated before not long ago, north / south engines don't like to be mounted transverse. I know those engines are completely different, they just both happen to displace 3.8 liters. It might be quite a project, if it's possible at all.

Hi speedy266, OldsGuy, hello All
Comp Cams is paying that production company a lot of money to showcase their product and that money pays his wages.
If the script says it's a good product, thats what he says.
Can you say Infomercial? OEM means it is the same as you have, and 2, 3, and 4, each move the power band higher.
Without the other mods that work in concert with the upgrades, the bigger grinds might even give you less power than you already have. Go to Oldspower.com, find the Front Drive section, post your questions and you should get answers that pertain to your needs.
In the meantime This might give you an idea how involved cam dynamics are.
Keep in mind they are only touching the basics.
Supercharged engines use cams designed for that purpose.
NOS is a lot less expensive and will not blow the bottom end out of your block as quick.
A couple of times

Regards, Norm

Speedy, unfortunetly those cams are designed for a RWD application, and not a FWD like you have. They made even and odd fire versions of the 3.8 liter RWD engines, and the 3.8 encompassed both the 231 V6 RWD Buick engines as well as the 229 Chevy V6 RWD versions, depending on application.

That's what I was kinda hinting in my previous post....thought it was for RWD...glad that you could clarify it.

TOC Admin
Brando

dammit that sucks, hmmm i'll have to check out my local performance shop see wat they can do for me, thanks for the info though.